Emmerich Knoll Gruner Veltliner Ried Kreutles Smaragd 2017


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“Knoll’s 2017 Loibner Grüner Veltliner Ried Kreutles Smaragd is intensely fruity but fine and refreshingly mineral on the nose. Ripe and almost creamy on the palate, with a crystalline acidity and an intense finish, this is a full-bodied and elegant Veltliner with a lingering grip and salinity. This wine is well structured and will improve over the years in the bottle. Tasted in Unterloiben/Wachau, September 2018. Drink: 2020-2033. 91 points

“2017 has been as dry as never before between January and July,” says Emmy Knoll senior, who has recorded the weather data for 50 years. “The leaves turned yellow or even brown already in June. It was the rain in the middle of August that rescued the vintage. After that, the temperatures went down and the night temperatures were cool, which finally gave elegant and fruity wines with refreshing acidity levels. To be honest, during the summer, neither we nor our colleagues thought 2017 would give so beautiful wines at the end. Especially Riesling kept its acidity incredibly high, with two grams per liter more than Grüner Veltliner. I have to say, we are very happy with the 2017 vintage.”

Indeed, Knoll’s 2017s are homogeneously great, especially the Rieslings whose finest example comes from the Ried Schütt, which benefited from the cool evening winds from the rift (Menthalgraben) at whose end the rather flat but stony (gneiss) detritic cone cru is located. Also the Grüner Veltliner Vinothekfüllung is an impressive wine and perhaps one of the finest that was produced in the 2017 vintage. It is concentrated and very complex but refined and highly elegant. Readers shouldn’t miss tasting the mouth-filling Kreutles Federspiel Veltliner too. It’s a different character compared to the Smaragd, but it’s on the same high-quality level. Among the Loibenberg bottlings, I even prefer the medium-weight Federspiel Riesling to the Smaragd, since it is just as fine and elegant, mineral and tensioned and highly stimulatingly.”

Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (240)