Fontodi Dino 2020


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“The 2020 Chianti Classico Dino is a selection of Sangiovese from Fontodi’s coolest site, fermented in terra cotta amphora. It shows all the richness of Panzano, but with more tannic drive than most of the wines in this range, likely because there is no sweetness or textural suaveness imparted by oak. Readers will find a wild, raw Chianti Classico that needs a year or two to soften. Drinking window: 2025-2035. 93 points

Proprietor Giovanni Manetti could certainly rest on his laurels. The wines have been benchmarks for some time. In recent years, Manetti’s influence as a leader in Panzano and Chianti Classico has exploded because of his role as the President of the Consorzio del Chianti Classico. Instead, Manetti has continued to acquire vineyards and introduce new wines while also quietly refining his approach with the established labels. The 2020s are a bit reticent, but they have also begun to soften in recent months. An example is the 2020 Vigna del Sorbo, which was brooding when I first tasted it a few months ago but is quite a bit more refined in recent tastings. “Two thousand twenty and 2021 are pretty similar,” Giovanni and Bernardo Manetti recounted at Fontodi. “There were perhaps more extremes weather-wise in 2021, but we also had greater diurnal shifts and a later harvest under cooler conditions.””

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (08/23)