Fontodi Filetta di Lamole Chianti Classico 2020

“The 2020 Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole is elegant, delicate and lifted. Fine-grained tannins wrap around a core of bright raspberry fruit, cedar, tobacco and anise. Medium in body and aromatic, the Filetta di Lamole is a super-classic wine from this site. Drinking window: 2023-2032. 90 points

Proprietor Giovanni Manetti could certainly rest on his laurels. The wines have been benchmarks for some time. In recent years, Manetti’s influence as a leader in Panzano and Chianti Classico has exploded because of his role as the President of the Consorzio del Chianti Classico. Instead, Manetti has continued to acquire vineyards and introduce new wines while also quietly refining his approach with the established labels. The 2020s are a bit reticent, but they have also begun to soften in recent months. An example is the 2020 Vigna del Sorbo, which was brooding when I first tasted it a few months ago but is quite a bit more refined in recent tastings. “Two thousand twenty and 2021 are pretty similar,” Giovanni and Bernardo Manetti recounted at Fontodi. “There were perhaps more extremes weather-wise in 2021, but we also had greater diurnal shifts and a later harvest under cooler conditions.””

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (08/23)