Francois Carillon Bourgogne Chardonnay 2017

£24.25

“Carillon’s 2017 Bourgogne Chardonnay bursts with scents of pastry cream, ripe lemons and white flowers. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with a rich but nicely defined profile. This is a gourmand, generous Bourgogne that will drink well in its youth. Drink: 2018-2025. 87 points

The 2017 vintage is a great success for François Carillon, who has produced his most successful range of wines since the inception of his eponymous domaine in 2010. Of course, this estate is only a new incarnation of a long-standing family tradition that stretches back many generations: François is named after his great-grandfather, François Virot, the pioneering regisseur of Domaine Leflaive who must rank among the 20th century’s greatest white winemakers, and he began working with his father, Louis Carillon, with the 1988 vintage. François’s style is richer and more gourmand than his brother’s, and he harvests later; but in 2017, the texture and flesh is tempered by succulent acids, and though the wines are broad and textural, they are also pure and precise on both the nose and the palate. The influence of new wood—in the past, sometimes a little prominent for this reviewer’s palate—is also deftly judged. In short, this is an exceptional set of wines that suggests that Carillon has arrived at a mature style of his own. His great-grandfather would be proud.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (242)

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