Francois Legros Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Aux Thorey 2020

“The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Thorey 1er Cru comes from grey-tinged soils. Crisp and delineated on the nose, this is nicely focused and full of nascent energy. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh with a gentle grip on the Morey-like finish. Drinking window: 2024-2038. 91-93 points

Domaine François Legros comprises fully 57 parcels, up to 50 kilometers apart—a considerable logistical challenge! Yet Legros has cultivated the soils for the last 15 years and works along largely organic lines, excepting only some synthetic anti-mildew treatments in years with elevated disease pressure. Much of the domaine’s Pinot Noir is pruned in cordon, and yields are controlled. Winemaking is simple: a brief cold soak, when punch-downs are employed, followed by three to four weeks’ maceration, with tanks heated to 31 degrees centigrade at the end. After pressing, the young wines are drawn off into barrels from Chassis, Cavin and François Frères, each barrel seeing four liters of lees. The most serious reds see two winters in barrel, with bottling in March. The style here is very classical and charming: no smoke or mirrors, just classic, well-made Burgundy. The insider’s choice is the lovely Vougeot 1er Cru Les Cras, a cuvée well worth seeking out, but everything here comes recommended.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (12/21)