G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 2017

£65.75

“The 2017 Barolo Ravera is gorgeous right out of the gate. I am so impressed with its depth and pedigree. Rose petal, sweet red berry fruit, lavender, spice and dried herbs are all finely delineated in a Barolo of tremendous presence. Orange peel, cinnamon and cedar develop later, adding shades of dimension. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s stature and power. The 2017 is going to be fascinating to follow. Today, it is just breathtaking. That’s all there is to it. Drinking window: 2025-2041. 95 points

The Vajra family produced a bevy of stellar wines from both their estates, G.D. Vajra in Barolo and Baudana in Serralunga. The 2017s are deep, fleshy and impeccably balanced. All of the 2017s were fermented in steel, where they spent 50-60 days on the skins, including submerged cap maceration at the end. Aging was done mostly in cask, with some smaller neutral oak barrels.

“Most of our work in the vineyard is done by June,” Aldo Vajra told me. “What vines don’t like are sudden changes, so we try to do most of our work early. It’s not just the heat that is an issue, but also direct sunlight on the berries. In 2017 we left a little more fruit on the vine in order to maintain freshness and delay harvest as much as possible.””

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/21)

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