Heresztyn-Mazzini Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jouises Vieilles Vignes 2018


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“The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jouises” Vieilles Vignes is raised in 20% new oak with 50–60% whole bunch. This was quite reduced on the nose and difficult to read. The palate is more open, offering ebullient red fruit, and quite spicy, revealing a liberal sprinkling of black pepper on the finish. Good potential, though it deserves 4–5 years in bottle. Drinking window: 2024-2040. 91-93 points

Champenoise Simon Heresztyn-Mazzini showed me through his 2019s this year. I noticed a large canvas photograph of him and his wife Florence posing next to Clos Saint-Denis. This year they built a new wall with a plaque to indicate the location of their prized holding à la Jacques Prieur and de Vogüé. “We were lucky because we had no frost during spring. The vineyard grew fast so that was tough, but we had no mildew of oïdium. The summer was wonderful, a bit dry and there was just a bit of blockage in the growth cycle. We are trying to pick the grapes not only when we see the sugar levels but according to phenolic ripeness. We started the harvest on 18 September and finished on 23 September. Yields were 35 to 42hl/ha. The alcohol levels are between 12.6° and 14.2°, quite high but with whole bunches there is a good balance. They don’t have any heaviness. We have been using the Billon cooperage for three years. The barrels can be a bit toasty in the beginning but they assimilate very well. We will add a bit of SO2 during racking and the reds will be bottled next May.” A bit like Duroché, Heresztyn-Mazzini has come out of nowhere in recent years. Though they perhaps do not attract the same fervour and attendant prices of their aforementioned neighbour, they have established a strong and loyal following for their wines that make judicious use of the old vine stock, low intervention winemaking, assiduous use of stems and minimal SO2. Their Clos Saint-Denis is excellent, but where I found the most pleasure vis-à-vis notional price is with their Gevrey-Chambertins La Perrière and Les Champonnets.”

Neal Martin, Vinous (12/20)