Hunter-McKirdy Sous les Coudriers 2024
£41.95
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“The 2024 Sous les Coudriers is from the old lieu-dit Haseloch at 240 meters of altitude, facing north on Oligocene limestone, bordering the Sonnenglanz site, from Pinot Gris vines planted in 2004. Wonderful reduction dominates the nose for now. The palate enters with vivid 2024 freshness but retains its varietal generosity, which is channeled into smooth, lemon-edged depth, feeling almost chalky but beautifully bright. The bone-dry finish sits so well with the brightness. (Bone-dry) Drinking window: 2026-2046. 92 points
This young domaine was founded in late 2022 by former colleagues Jolene Hunter, originally from South Africa, and Paul McKirdy, originally from Scotland. Both previously worked at Zind-Humbrecht. The core of the estate is formed by vineyards around Zellenberg, leased from Marc Tempé, who had no successor after retirement. The first commercial vintages were 2023 and 2024. “The idea is very simple. After working for a big winery, we wanted to set up a winery where we have no more than five hectares of vineyard,” McKirdy said. “Only Jolene and I work in the vineyards; we will not have any staff. We do not make any more than 20,000 bottles, so we have the freedom to make the wines we want. We will never be bigger, and everything is based on viticulture, viticulture, viticulture.” All 4.3 hectares are certified organic. Picking decisions are based on pH levels, and botrytis and shrivelling are avoided. All fruit is whole-bunch-pressed. The musts are not clarified before fermentation, which takes place in well-used 228-liter barrels sourced from friends in Meursault. All ferments are spontaneous, and the wines remain on gross lees until bottling. They are bottled without fining or filtration and sealed under natural cork. The domaine farms Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling and, as of June 2025, Chardonnay. All wines are labeled as Vin de France.
By doing treatments on foot and working without a tractor, Hunter and McKirdy managed to contain mildew infections during the wet 2024 growing season. Their 2023 and 2024 lineups show beautiful site character in a style that is pure and bright yet textured and imaginative. Though very different in style, the wines convey a sense of continuity with Marc Tempé’s bottlings, signaling a beautiful rebirth for these sites.”
Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (03/26)
