J.J. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2010


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“Site-typical lime and dark cherry accented by cherry pit make for a Prum 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese at once liqueur-like in richness; juicily, vivaciously citric; and invigorating in its combination of subtly cyanic, chewy, saline, and zesty finishing impingements. Like so many of the more successful wines of its vintage, this also uncannily combines palpable senses of high extract with levity, its high acid and low alcohol reinforcing one another’s encouragement of vivacity and refreshment such as are seldom derived from a wine at this level of ripeness. This deeply flavorful, vibrant, and not in the least superficially sweet Auslese is I feel sure going to go strong for more than another 30 years. (Would that I could so easily imagine myself living to test that prognosis!) Drink: 2012-2042. 93 points

Katharina Prum says she and her father performed some de-acidification on their eventual generic Kabinett bottling as wine, but otherwise employed only sparingly light double-salt must de-acidification, insisting that late harvesting was the essential measure to be taken this year against high acidity. (And, as usual, most of the wines were bottled in high summer, relatively late when compared with those of nearly all their Middle Mosel neighbors.) It’s not so much that measurable acidity dropped significantly in the second half of October, opined Prum, but that the character of the acidity changed in immeasurable ways. Other than the aforementioned generic bottling, concentration was deemed simply too high this year for any of an already small crop to be rendered as Kabinett. And indeed, only the two most prominent sites were captured in Spatlese format; all else is Auslese and above. Prum notes that levels of residual sugar are seldom significantly higher this year than in other recent vintages, with the result that the wines generally tend to taste a bit drier. “Above and beyond” (as it were) those wines I report on (or whose existence I at least mention) below, there is material from Wehlener Sonnenuhr expected to inform long gold capsule Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese and be released in future years. (Veteran readers of my reports will know by now that while there are often multiple eponymous Prum bottlings, the family is loathe to disclose the A.P. #s of wines they serve in tastings, numbers that might be required to disambiguate between lots which they insist that there will only ever be very slight difference. In 2010, the crop is was so small that there are few alternate bottlings.)”

David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate (199)