Jean-Louis Dutraive Domaine de la Grand’Cour Fleurie Le Clos 2022


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“The 2022 Fleurie Le Clos Cuvée Vielles Vignes comes from the oldest vines in the Clos, 80 to 90 years old and aged entirely in barrel. It has a well-defined bouquet with dark cherry and raspberry fruit, crushed stone and light scents of pressed rose petal—wonderfully delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, a killer line of acidity and a very composed, almost crystalline finish that lingers long in the mouth. Excellent. Drinking window: 2026-2038. 93 points

Jean-Louis Dutraive’s daughter, Ophélie, was on hand to guide me through their latest releases. Their Korean importer joined us, a timely reminder that Beaujolais has a large following in the Far East. Ophélie mentioned that the vinification of the 2022s was quite difficult after harvesting early (between August 20 and 30) in order to preserve acidity. Like the region’s best producers, the quality derives from parcels of ancient vines and careful, hands-off vinification, mainly in demi-muids with some foudres, though they are less averse to regular barrels than others. Their 2022 Fleurie Le Clos Cuvée Vielles Vignes, from 90- to 100-year-old vines, is outstanding, blessed with a crystalline finish. I also tasted the 2023s from barrel, although I will leave those for next year’s report.”

Neal Martin, Vinous (04/24)