Jean-Pierre Guyon Vosne Romanee 2017


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“Guyon’s 2017 Vosne-Romanée Village offers up a complex bouquet of sweet wild berries, violet, warm spices, smoked meats and dried flowers. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and deep, with succulent acids and a fine but firm chassis of structuring stem tannins. 89-91 points

My tasting with Jean-Pierre Guyon was one of the highlights of over two months tasting in Burgundy, as I hadn’t appreciated just how exciting the wines emerging from this six-hectare Vosne-Romanée domaine are. Guyon, whose first vintage was 1987, recounted how in the late 1980s and early 1990s he—along with many of his contemporaries—made heavily extracted, oaky wines, attempting to prove that Pinot Noir need not lack color or structure. Today, by contrast, his ambition is to revert to what he considers the old-fashioned way of doing things: that’s to say, vinification with mostly whole clusters; no sulfur additions, if possible, until the Spring following the harvest; a cuvaison of some twenty days; and gentle basket pressing. The consummation of this new approach, along with organic certification, dates to 2012. Thanks to an enviable patrimony of old vines (“I don’t have any young vines,” boasts Guyon), yields are low, stems ripe, and the new approach works remarkably successfully. While the wines are certainly marked by their whole cluster fermentation, which lends them lovely aromatic range, they have such natural concentration that they avoid being overtly stylized, and site distinctions are articulately expressed. Guyon’s 2017s, it would be fair to say, transcend the vintage norms in terms of depth and dimension, and I warmly encourage readers to acquaint themselves with this exciting domaine.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/19)