Julien Guillot Macon Cruzille Manganite 2018

£47.99

In Stock

“The 2018 Mâcon-Cruzille Manganite is terrific, soaring from the glass with complex scents of orange rind, peonies, Indian spices, red berries and cherries, complemented by subtle carnal nuances and hints of loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and sapid, it’s deep and concentrated, with racy acids, exquisitely powdery tannins and a long, penetrating finish. From old selections of Gamay planted in 1953, this is an extraordinary wine that shows what the reds of the Mâconnais are capable of. Drink: 2020-2035. 94 points

In a sense, a visit to Julien Guillot’s Domaine des Vignes du Maynes is like stepping back in time. Farmed organically since the Second World War, these vineyards have never seen pesticides or herbicides. The Guillot family also never planted clonal selections of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay, preferring to keep the lower yielding local selections that have since died out elsewhere. Even the estate’s cellars are constructed on the ruins of a Roman villa. Yet for all the weight of history here, Domaine des Vignes du Maynes is also decidedly innovative. Guillot is a pioneer of biodynamics in Southern Burgundy: when he made the shift in 1998, his neighbors referred to his endeavors as “les conneries de Guillot”—”Guillot’s bullshit.” He vinifies with little or no sulfur dioxide. And he’s a darling of the so-called natural wine movement, his wines coveted by Parisian cavistes and East Coast sommeliers alike. They merit all the attention, because Guillot is far from a follower of fashion: wander through the vineyards of Cruzille in springtime, and the chances are you’ll run into him on a tractor. Complex and textural, the whites are exotic examples of white Burgundy that will surprise anyone habituated to aseptic, sterile commercial Mâcon. And the reds are superb: satiny and perfumed expressions of Pinot Noir and Gamay that disappear dangerously rapidly. This is an iconic estate in the Mâconnais, and readers shouldn’t hesitate to experience these singular wines for themselves.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (249)