La Stoppa Ageno 2018

“The 2018 Ageno is a deep orange hue in the glass. It displays mesmerizing bouquet that blends tropical melon and peach with a dusting of gingery spice, flower petals and freshly sliced vanilla bean. It washes across the palate with textural richness yet quickly gains in both tension and verve, as a sweet and sour interplay of ripe kiwi meets tart blood orange. A touch of fresh mint adds a lovely lift toward the close. The 2018 leaves the palate classically dry yet not tired. The cheeks pucker, and honeyed inner florals slowly fade. Ageno is a beguiling mix of 90% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and 10% Ortrugo and Trebbiano, which macerates for four months on the skins and is then refined in forty-hectoliter wooden vats. Fans of skin-contact wine should take notes because this is not to be missed. The 2018 is the current release, as La Stoppa released the 2019 prior due to its forward-drinking nature. Drink: 2023-2028. 93 points”

Eric Guido, Vinous (03/23)