L’Arco Pario 2019


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“The 2019 Pario is darkly alluring, showing a powerful display of dried black cherries complicated by notes of cedar, clove and leather, all lifted by a hint of camphor. It’s surprisingly fresh and lively within despite its imposing bouquet, mixing tart wild berry fruits with violet inner florals and a bitter tinge of balsamic spice. Lightly tannic, the 2019 finishes long and staining, with a crunchy sensation that keeps the taster looking back to the glass for more. If opening the Pario today, make sure to give it a good amount of air. This is a blend of half fresh and half appassimento Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Drinking window: 2025-2032. 94 points

The tasting at L’Arco included both new releases and a very rare look back into library vintages of Rubeo, an appassimento-driven blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Corvina, 15% Rondinella and 15% Molinara. In last year’s article, I explained Luca Fedrigo’s very close ties to Quintarelli and how he has chosen to uphold those teachings to the letter. The wines possess that same magic and soulfulness that make Quintarelli an icon to this day. As such, they also require similar attention. For instance, Fedrigo clarified that the wines are best opened no less than eight hours prior to tasting, if not the night before. This visit was particularly interesting, as I recalled the first time I tasted these wines, including the 2003, 2004 and 2006 vintages, which we revisited. I still have a 2003 L’Arco Amarone in my cellar, waiting for a special occasion. The new releases show the same energy, verve and depth of fruit that I’ve come to know from these wines. However, Fedrigo decided not to bottle his 2018 Amarone in response to the year’s conditions, a choice I wish more producers had made. That said, both the Rubeo and Pario from the vintage are both terrific, just more immediate. As for 2019, my interests are truly piqued after tasting the Pario, a blend of half fresh and half appassimento Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. It’s a serious wine that will require patience.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (02/24)