Les Champs de L’Abbaye Mercurey Rouge La Brigadiere 2019


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“The 2019 Mercurey La Brigadière is excellent, exhibiting aromas of black raspberries, plums and warm spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, sumptuous and perfumed palate that’s framed by melting tannins and succulent acids. This is another irresistible wine from Alain Hasard. Drink: 2021-2033. 90 points

The genial Alain Hasard presides over the superb Domaine Les Champs de l’Abbaye, the only estate that domaine-bottles in the pretty village of Aluze, a commune blessed by fine terroirs but entitled only to the Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise AOC. “Would we have an appellation of our own if, like Bouzeron, we had benefited from a resident as respected as Aubert de Villaine?” Hasard ponders, and the question isn’t misplaced. A sommelier who changed careers, Hasard purchased 6.5 hectares and kept only the best, exploiting five hectares of vines today, from which he produces 13 different cuvées. Certified organic since 1999, Hasard has planted at higher densities with massal selections and superior clones. Yields, at 25 hectoliters per hectare for red, would be considered low in the Côte de Nuits. In the winery, whites are pressed for two and a half hours to extract from the skins, and reds ferment with one- to two-thirds whole cluster—though there are no rules. In the cellar, élevage takes place in barrels from the Tonnellerie Mercurey and Stéphane Chassin. I was taken aback by just how good these wines are: Hasard’s concentrated, chiseled whites and his perfumed, enveloping reds deserve to be far better known outside of France. In short, this is a superb domaine that I can’t recommend highly enough, and Hasard’s wines will be covered every year in these pages from now on.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (07/21)