Luneau-Papin Muscadet Excelsior 2018

£29.49

“This is a lightly aromatic, youthful expression of Excelsior that has florals and nectarine characters, showing the warmer season. The 2018 retains a delicacy despite the warmer season providing fuller body and blossoming. It has still maintained its structure and sense of tension and could be approached at this early stage despite it being a cuvée that typically has longevity. I wonder if it has the intensity of concentration that some of the longer-lived vintages display. Drinking window: 2022-2034. 92 points

If you aren’t convinced of just how good Muscadet can be, buy a mature bottle of Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin’s Excelsior and have your mind blown. It was my ah-ha Muscadet moment. Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin sits in the Goulaine area of Muscadet, with an increasing portion of vines on the much-loved admired Butte de la Roche hill, which go into the Terre de Pierre and Gula Ana cuvées. Having returned to the family domaine in 2005, Pierre-Marie Luneau worked alongside his parents until they retired in 2018. Assisted by his seemingly indefatigable wife Marie Chartier-Luneau, the couple and their young family are carrying on the work of the previous eight generations. They are focused on making the finest quality, structural Melon wines and respecting the land including the conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture. Harvesting is almost entirely by hand, which is unusual in the region, but you don’t get to make some of the best wines in the region through machine harvesting. They produce nine Muscadet Sèvre et Maines and two under the Muscadet cru of Goulaine. Fine-wine lovers looking to add Muscadet to their cellar need look no further. Visitors can also expect an exuberant welcome from Jupiter, the dog.”

Rebecca Gibb, Vinous (11/21)

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