Marco de Bartoli Vecchio Samperi N.V.

“Pine shavings, cloves and salted almonds form a dusty bouquet as the NV Vecchi Samperi Perpetuo opens in the glass. This is decidedly savory and saline in character with cheek-puckering tart orchard fruits and exotic spices. It tapers off long and staining, forcing the mouth to water. Use this in place of your favorite dry Sherry. The Perpetuo was created using a Solera system and was bottled in 2022. Drinking window: 2023-2033. 92 points

Marco de Bartoli is highly regarded for vintage Marsalas (make sure to check out the note on the 1988); his work is a fresh interpretation of Grillo and Zibibbo. These are some of the best white wines made in Sicily today. The Gappoli di Grillo goes through twenty-four hours of maceration and is then aged on its lees with bâtonnage in a mix of French oak barrels ranging from 225 to 1,000 liters. The Gappoli di Grillo is one of the most complex renderings of the variety I’ve ever encountered. Another highlight is the Zibibbo Integer, a wild wine from their bush-trained vines on Pantelleria. It goes through several months of maceration in clay amphorae, followed by ten months of further aging. Open a bottle and prepare to be bombarded by its exotic aromatics and seduced by its deep textures and zesty acidity. These wines get snatched up quickly by loyal de Bartoli fans. I can’t recommend them highly enough.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (09/23)