Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Premier Cru Fremiet 2018


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“The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet unwinds in the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet mingling raspberries and blood orange with savory bass notes of woo smoke, loamy soil, espresso roast and raw cocoa. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and lively, with a deep and tight-knit core, bright acids and a long finish. 92-94 points

After d’Angerville’s immensely charming 2017 portfolio—which I’ll be revisiting in the spring, as well as going into a bit more depth about the domaine’s history and holdings—the 2018 vintage at this Volnay reference point is more muscular and structured, wines that will both need and reward élevage and bottle age. Stylistically, comparisons with the 2005 vintage wouldn’t be out of place, though I think these 2018s won’t be quite as youthfully unyielding as that year. As ever, the domaine has produced exemplary wines, and I warmly recommend them.

As I wrote last year, followers of d’Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: biodynamic farming, destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels—of which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. These have always been seriously long-lived wines, but contemporary d’Angerville isn’t quite as backward and slow to evolve as the wines were in the days of Guillaume d’Angerville’s father. The use of barrels with a somewhat younger average age—even if percentages of new wood are very modest—gives them a slightly glossier patina, especially in their youth. But readers can expect more insights into this estate later in 2020.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (01/20)