Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2019

“Exotic spice and medicinal cherries gain lift through a refreshing wave of mint as the 2019 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva opens in the glass. This is still quite primary with an inky concentration of dark red fruits that saturate, leaving a mineral staining but also a twang of sour citrus to balance. While structured and potent, the 2019 is full of lively energy. This early preview of the recently-bottled 2019 shows tremendous potential. Drinking window: 2024-2030. 92-94 points

Masciarelli, in San Martino sulla Marrucina, is located in the mountains with Mount Maiella, not the Gran Sasso massif, looming in the distance. A 40-minute drive west would allow you to go skiing, while a 40-minute drive east would land you on the Adriatic beaches. The wines here provide an interesting peek into the diversity of terroir throughout Abruzzo. Masciarelli oversees 365 hectares through sustainable practices, spread out between 60 different sites. Masciarelli is the only Abruzzo producer to source all-estate fruit from all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo and l’Aquila). When asked if they wanted to grow any larger, Marina Cvetic Masciarelli, the current head of the winery, responded with a flat-out “no”, and to quote her, “Climate change is a disaster.” The continuing heat and dry conditions are changing the way producers are looking to the future. In San Martino during the summer of 2022, everything was a vibrant green due to built-up water supplies from winter snow and spring rain. But, this is only one small part of the property, each area within Abruzzo has its own dynamic. Marina Cvetic Masciarelli admitted that she doesn’t know yet what the future will hold, but a rethinking of locations, exposures and possibly even varieties is necessary. As for the wines of today, this continues to be one of the most dependable producers throughout the entire region. Their portfolio provides a little something for everyone, the “classic” and fresher “Masciarelli’” lineup, the more international and stylish “Masciarelli – Marina Cvetic” bottlings and the more powerful and age-worthy “Masciarelli – Villa Gemma” label. This house also tailors one of the top Cerasuolos being produced throughout all of Abruzzo, made in a hearty fashion, and a small production of international varieties, including a Syrah that I found to be quite impressive.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (10/22)