Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2020


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“The 2020 Trebbiano d‘Abruzzo Riserva blends rich notes of honeysuckle, vanilla custard and white flowers with vivid dried peaches and crushed rocks that evolve into white smoke. This soothes the palate with near-oily textures, while also stimulating it with a mix of intense lemony concentration and penetrating mineral tones. The 2020 finishes with a bitter twang and lightly structured, yet still remarkably fresh. Drinking window: 2023-2027. 92 points

Masciarelli, in San Martino sulla Marrucina, is located in the mountains with Mount Maiella, not the Gran Sasso massif, looming in the distance. A 40-minute drive west would allow you to go skiing, while a 40-minute drive east would land you on the Adriatic beaches. The wines here provide an interesting peek into the diversity of terroir throughout Abruzzo. Masciarelli oversees 365 hectares through sustainable practices, spread out between 60 different sites. Masciarelli is the only Abruzzo producer to source all-estate fruit from all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo and l’Aquila). When asked if they wanted to grow any larger, Marina Cvetic Masciarelli, the current head of the winery, responded with a flat-out “no”, and to quote her, “Climate change is a disaster.” The continuing heat and dry conditions are changing the way producers are looking to the future. In San Martino during the summer of 2022, everything was a vibrant green due to built-up water supplies from winter snow and spring rain. But, this is only one small part of the property, each area within Abruzzo has its own dynamic. Marina Cvetic Masciarelli admitted that she doesn’t know yet what the future will hold, but a rethinking of locations, exposures and possibly even varieties is necessary. As for the wines of today, this continues to be one of the most dependable producers throughout the entire region. Their portfolio provides a little something for everyone, the “classic” and fresher “Masciarelli’” lineup, the more international and stylish “Masciarelli – Marina Cvetic” bottlings and the more powerful and age-worthy “Masciarelli – Villa Gemma” label. This house also tailors one of the top Cerasuolos being produced throughout all of Abruzzo, made in a hearty fashion, and a small production of international varieties, including a Syrah that I found to be quite impressive.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (10/22)