Maume-Siblas Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Cherbaudes 2021

£129.95

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“The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Cherbaudes 1er Cru, sadly reduced to a single barrel, new from the Rousseau cooperage, though you can barely detect the oak. It has an attractive nose with brambly red fruit, sous-bois, hints of tobacco and wilted roses, quite a bit of reduction but that will go by the time of racking. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, just about perfectly-pitched acidity, harmonious with a refined but persistent finish that is quintessential Pinoté. Tres. Bon. Vin. lci. Drinking window: 2025-2040. 92-94 points

It is a brief visit to Domaine Maume, but definitely worth it, just to taste their consistently over-performing Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud. These wines were made by Bertrand Maume, though duties have been transferred to his wife, Patricia Siblas, who has overseen the production since 2017, as well as her own label, a couple of examples included in this report. As I mentioned before, she will be aided by her two sons henceforth. She tells me that all the cuvées are whole bunches, not that you can tell.”

Neal Martin, Vinous (01/23)