Monte Dall’Ora Valpolicella Superiore Camporenzo 2019

“The 2019 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Camporenzo is smoky and spicy from the first tilt of the glass, as crushed stone blows off to reveal peppery herbs and wild berries. This washes across the palate with a pretty inner sweetness up front contrasted by mineral-tinged red fruits and blood orange. The 2019 lingers long yet remarkably fresh, leaving a salty flourish and licorice hints framed by a tug of gentle tannin. This is so beautiful today that it’s hard to imagine waiting, yet don’t be surprised if this improves with a year or two in bottle. Drinking window: 2023-2027. 92 points

Over the last few years, I’ve been happily following the wines of Monte dall’Ora, which possess a sense of energy and purity seldom found in Valpolicella. Carlo Venturini and his wife Alessandra Zantedeschi started to work their farm in 1995, organic at first, with a conversion to biodynamic principles in 2006. The couple believes deeply in biodiversity, using pergola-trained vines planted amongst cherry and olive trees and grasses and wildflowers that create a natural ecosystem. The family also tends to a 50-year-old parcel planted using the “vite maritata” system, where the vines are “married” or supported by trees, including almond and mulberry. This parcel creates their Amarone Stropa, which is a huge standout. Each wine is a declaration of place with vineyards throughout the Classico zone. Also of note is the high-elevation San Giorgio vineyard, which produces one of the most exciting Valpolicella I have tasted this year. This is low intervention, natural winemaking at its very best.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (03/23)