Niepoort Redoma Branco Reserva 2019
“The 2019 Redoma Reserva Branco is a field blend from old vines featuring Rabigato, Códega, Viosinho, Arinto and others, all aged for nine months in 60% new French oak. It comes in very dry and at just 12.0% alcohol. This has more new wood and a longer time in wood than the regular Redoma Branco, but that doesn’t make it any better. For some, it may be a demerit. The style issue here is far more important than any qualitative issue. The new wood does impart a touch of vanilla here, but the extra wood also gives this velvety texture. There’s a longer finish as well. At the moment, I like the regular Redoma as much, maybe more. It is true that extended cellaring may change that answer, and this may do better in the cellar. It still has to prove that, and are you willing to wait several years? In that case, somewhere around 2030, you may well be rewarded handsomely. Meanwhile, this is nearly twice the price. Drink: 2021-2043. 92 points
This is a fascinating collection on a number of grounds. The wines, as always, are interesting in their own right. But looking up and down the list, one thing I noticed was that price is not always the key determinant in the Niepoort collection. You can drink well for modest money. Of course, there are also wines from regions where price points tend to be lower, like the Conciso, but you can do well at the lower and mid-level here even in Douro, like the Bioma, Vertente and the regular Redoma Branco. In his Bairrada output, separately listed, the 2017 Quinta de Baixo (Niepoort) Poeirinho is hardly cheap, but it is awfully impressive at a list price of $40.
Of course, greatness beckons with some of the upper-level, like that Turris, which has a lot of unrealized potential. And that’s not going to be cheap.”
Mark Squires, Wine Advocate (07/21)