Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Laurentiuslay Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2021


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“The 2021 Riesling Leiwener Laurentiuslay Grosses Gewachs is from one of the warmest sites in this portfolio. The tender nose unites subtle herbal savor with ripe Mirabelle and Amalfi lemon. The lemon moves center stage on the palate – bright, expressive, with gorgeously ripe acidity and unaided by sweetness. This is pure and grown-up; it shines in this year. Luminous lemon freshness and absolute tension. Lovely. (Bone-dry). Drinking window: 2023-2050. 95 points

Daniela and Nik Weis are en route to the top in their 1947-founded estate in Leiwen that by now spans 45 hectares in both Mosel and Saar in sites like the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Leiwener Laurentiuslay, Mehringer Layet, Ockfener Bockstein and Schodener Saarfeilser Marienberg. One of the newer holdings is in the Dhroner Hofberg, which is being planted to Pinot Noir. They vinify considerably more under the Nik Weis label, all in stainless steel, from bought fruit and vineyards they do not own but manage. All wines under the St. Urbans-Hof label are from estate fruit only. While Hermann Jostock remains the viticulturist (and famous nurseryman), Kai Hausen has been the cellarmaster since 2019. Hausen and Weis keep fine-tuning. Hausen notes that over the past four years, they decided on earlier harvest dates – except for the late 2021, of course – and even lower yields. The wines are fermented spontaneously wherever possible and made in both stainless steel and wood, with the GGs now mostly made in stainless steel only. More parcels are vinified separately than ever, allowing for more precise blending decisions. The evolution continues: as of 2022, an enclosed basket press allows for the gentlest pressing in entirely reductive conditions. Daniela Weis noted that yields were down in 2021, but losses were not significant. Hausen explains that he and Weis worked with skin contact and extended lees aging, leaving the 2021s on their gross lees until July 2022. The estate did not make any Beeren- or Trockenbeerenauslesen in 2021. All the GGs are uncompromisingly dry and translate their sites. The fine-tuning works: they turned out consistently bright, elegant and very fine wines in 2021. Reconstruction in 2020 also means a new, airy tasting room is now open to visitors.”

Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (06/23)