Nusserhof Lagrein Riserva 2013

“The 2013 Lagrein Riserva is a pleasure to taste, and it’s sure to win a lot of fans. Crushed ripe cherry, sweet spice, hints of white pepper, sage, mint and floral undergrowth all evolve in the glass. It’s cool-toned and juicy, with textures and body that will remind you more of Pinot than Lagrein. Energy builds, as zesty acids enliven its mineral-tinged wild berry fruit, while a subtle tug of gentle tannin resonates. This is a remarkably pretty wine that will win you over for its feminine grace over power. Drinking window: 2020-2028. 93 points

The walled-in Nusserhof winery and vineyards are tucked snuggly into the city of Bolzano, as if time had somehow forgotten them, yet that’s exactly how Heinrich and Elda Mayr would like things to stay. This family started tending vines in the area as far back as 1788, and today they work a mere three hectares around the property, along with a tiny parcel of pergola-trained, old-vine Schiava about a mile away. Practices in the vineyards are all organic, raising Lagrein, Teroldego and the nearly-extinct Blatterle to fill their unique and purely traditionally-made portfolio. The family continues to produce their wines without any temperature control, using long macerations, aging in large oak casks and releasing late by any local producers’ standards. These are wines of soul, dark in nature, but also teeming with energy while communicating their alpine roots and the passion of their makers. The most recent releases, which at this estate are from the 2013 and 2014 vintages, really show Nusserhof’s experience with and mastery of Lagrein and Teroldego. These are wonderfully balanced expressions of each variety with surprisingly low alcohol levels. While the Blatterle (2018 B..te..e) didn’t thrill me, I could certainly see it pairing wonderfully with the regional cuisine.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (11/20)