Powell & Son Kleinig Mataro 2016


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“There are two barrels (50 cases) of the 2016 Kleinig Mataro. Like many Barossa Mataros, it’s more red-fruited than black, with wild swirls of Provençal-like garrigue and licorice notes. Full-bodied and supple but firmly structured, with fine-grained tannins lining the finish, it should age well for a couple of decades. Drink: 2025-2040. 95 points

Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”

Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (238)