Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly-Fuisse Premier Cru La Marechaude 2020


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“The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé La Maréchaude ler Cru comes from two parcels, around half a hectare together, one particularly steep, which makes it hard to farm and so everything has to be done manually, backpacks to spray and so on. A little deeper in colour than other cuvées, this has a more concentrated, almost petrolly bouquet that manages to maintain impressive delineation and focus. The palate is beautifully balanced, very complex, a killer spine of acidity with outstanding tension on the finish. Very composed, I had to have a sneaky sip of this nectar. Drinking window: 2023-2040. 95 points

Roger and Christine Saumaize-Michelin have overseen a raft of top-notch Pouilly-Fuissé from this winery perched on the foothills of the Roc de Vergisson. We were joined by their daughter Lisa for the tasting. “We started the picking on 5 September compared to 2021, which started on 21 September. I prefer the 2020 over 2019. It has more directness. The vintage was easy to work, and the wines just give so much pleasure, whereas the 2019 was very warm. We started picking 25 August that year. The nights were fresher in 2019. Alcohol levels are between 13.0% to 13.5%. They are just more drinkable.” These tend to be fresh, nimble expressions of their vineyards, using minimal new oak, often quite saline on their finish. Whilst I felt that the Les Ronchevats needs a pep up on the nose and perhaps showed why it was not granted promotion in 2020, their Courtelongs and La Roche are outstanding. But it’s their Les Courtelongs that blew me away with its entrancing bouquet with supremely-well delineated palate that displays thrilling tension from start to finish.”

Neal Martin, Vinous (08/22)