Scions of Sinai Granietsteen 2022


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“The 2022 Granietsteen is pure dry-farmed Chenin bush vines planted in 1978 around 3.5km from the ocean, matured in large concrete eggs for nine months on the lees. The captivating bouquet has hints of lemon curd and lemon thyme, a light sea spray influence coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well-judged acidity, very harmonious with a saline core and a tensile finish. Paradoxically understated, yet it makes its presence felt. Superb. Drinking window: 2025-2045. 93 points

This Helderberg-based producer was one of my major discoveries last year, and so, naturally, I wanted to see winemaker Bernhard Bredell to taste his 2022s. These are marvelous, soulful, beautifully crafted wines from favored old vine sites, consistent across the board from the Cinsault-based Heldervallei to the brilliant Swanesan from dry-famed bush vines. Perhaps one of the most arresting wines is the 2022 Gramadoelas, Grenache Blanc from schist soils that I could have spent all night drinking. This is rapidly becoming one of Stellenbosch’s leading names.”

Neal Martin, Vinous (11/23)