Tabarrini Montefalco Sagrantino Colle alle Macchie 2016

“Rich plum and cherry sauce mixes with hints of ginger, sweet spice and dusty rose as the 2016 Montetalco Sagrantino Colle alle Macchie blossoms in the glass. There’s an energy here that captures the attention; this is silky in feel yet also surprisingly juicy and spry, with tart cherries giving way to complementary notes of clove and cinnamon. Of course, this is a young Sagrantino, and as such, its grippy tannins take control through the finale, but there’s plenty of residual acids and zesty citrus to keep the expression quite interesting. That said, the best is truly yet to come. The Colle alle Macchie is produced from vines growing in clay rich soils and refined for 36 months in French oak, hence the balance of sweet spice, power and structure. Drinking window: 2025-2036. 94 points

Giampaolo Tabarrini took the reins of the Tabarrini family holdings in the late 1990s. The winery is located just outside of Montefalco and includes 11 hectares of vines, primarily Sagrantino, Sangiovese and Trebbiano Spoletino. What really sets this estate apart is the importance that Giampaolo Tabarrini places on terroir, focusing on distinct parcels within their holdings that create unique expressions. Their estate Sagrantino blends fruit from throughout their vineyards, yet it’s in their cru bottlings Grimaldesco (southeast-facing, silty-limestone-clay soils at 350 meters), Campo alla Cerqua (south-facing, looser clay, mineral soil full of river stones at 365 meters) and Colle alle Macchie (south-facing, deep, thick clay and limestone soils at 380 meters) that you see just how sensitive to site the variety really is. These are big, strapping wines, but their balance is remarkable, making them a sure bet for extended cellaring. Also of serious note is the Adarmando, a varietal Trebbiano Spoletino that matches intense fruit and power without sacrificing elegance. Tasting the new 2019 against the mature 2010 made me a believer in this cuvée’s ability to mature.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (08/21)