Tabarrini Montefalco Sagrantino Colle Grimaldesco 2016

“Wild herbs, hints of animal musk and crushed ashen stone give way to a core of citrus-tinged blackberry as the 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino Colle Grimaldesco slowly comes to life in the glass. The textures are elegant and silky, yet quickly firm up as notes of tart cherry, black tea and savory herbs join with brisk acidity, forming tension toward the close. Fine tannins dominate through the long, chiseled finale, complicated by sour wild berries and a hint of spicy citrus. While a bit painful today, all the 2016 needs is time to soften and unwind, at which point it will be a stunner. Drinking window: 2025-2036. 93 points

Giampaolo Tabarrini took the reins of the Tabarrini family holdings in the late 1990s. The winery is located just outside of Montefalco and includes 11 hectares of vines, primarily Sagrantino, Sangiovese and Trebbiano Spoletino. What really sets this estate apart is the importance that Giampaolo Tabarrini places on terroir, focusing on distinct parcels within their holdings that create unique expressions. Their estate Sagrantino blends fruit from throughout their vineyards, yet it’s in their cru bottlings Grimaldesco (southeast-facing, silty-limestone-clay soils at 350 meters), Campo alla Cerqua (south-facing, looser clay, mineral soil full of river stones at 365 meters) and Colle alle Macchie (south-facing, deep, thick clay and limestone soils at 380 meters) that you see just how sensitive to site the variety really is. These are big, strapping wines, but their balance is remarkable, making them a sure bet for extended cellaring. Also of serious note is the Adarmando, a varietal Trebbiano Spoletino that matches intense fruit and power without sacrificing elegance. Tasting the new 2019 against the mature 2010 made me a believer in this cuvée’s ability to mature.”

Eric Guido, Vinous (08/21)