Villa Maria Attorney Pinot Noir 2019

“Marlborough Pinot ain’t what it used to be, and for that I’m glad. The 2019 Pinot Noir Attorney is a limited-edition cuvée made for the 60th anniversary of the company’s first vintage in 1961. Sourced from the Attorney vineyard in Marlborough, hence the wine’s name, this conservative young wine needs air; while offering raspberry and balsamic notes, it is a touch reductive on opening. Densely concentrated with a silken and mouthfilling texture, which is probably a reflection of its clay-based hillside site; the veil of fine-grained tannins offsets the charming, ripe palate with textured, dry grip. In combination with its naturally fresh acidity, the wine is sensuous and seductive but avoids being opulent; it remains focused and enjoys a long tenure in the mouth. (It’s also great for doing bicep curls due to the weight of the bottle.) For those who are interested, it was wild-fermented in French oak (35% new) and matured in barrel for more than a year before being bottled unfiltered. Drinking window: 2024-2032. 94 points”

Rebecca Gibb, Vinous (04/22)