Xavier Monnot Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatieres 2021

“The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er Cru has a classy bouquet, introverted initially then opening with wet limestone, orchard fruit and a touch of lemon verbena. The palate is very well balanced with good concentration, fine acidity and a tensile finish. Frankly, this is better than a lot of grander names and comes recommended. Drinking window: 2024-2035. 91-93 points

Xavier Monnot has two passions: making wine and hunting. If there’s a third, he hasn’t told me. He has a wry sense of humour that I appreciate, so this is one visit I always look forward to. Despite the difficult 2021 season, Monnot has excelled himself. “There is half the normal crop. After the frost, the growth stopped for a month, the vines completely shocked, and the summer was cool with sporadic showers. Finally, the maturity came slowly, and I picked around 22 September and finished in early October. Even though there is a small crop, the wines are not as unbalanced as in vintages like 1998. Only the bottom quarter of the vat is in contact with the fine lees, so that is the part that needs to be filtered. The reds had low yields; they are not full-bodied but are easy-drinking in style. The reds were all de-stemmed, and there is no new oak on the whites, around 40% second fill and a mix of older. However, yields were better for reds as the vines were less frozen.” While the reds dominate his portfolio, in 2021, Xavier Monnot’s whites surpass his reds, a steadfast set of Chardonnays with freshness and charm, crowned by a fine Puligny Folatières and Meursault Charmes.”

Neal Martin, Vinous (01/23)