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Recaredo Turo d'en Mota Brut Nature 2004

Recaredo Turo d'en Mota Brut Nature 2004

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"They are releasing the 2004 Turó d'en Mota after they sold the 2005, as they felt that the vintage needed more time in bottle. From this vintage onward it carries the new official denomination of Cava de Paraje Calificado. As they have done since the initial 1999, it comes from a single vineyard that gives the wine its name, and this is only the seventh vintage sold of the 19 they have produced, as it's sold after no less than 12 years (yes, YEARS!) in bottle with the lees. They consider 2004 one of the exceptional vintages in Penedès. It's pure Xarello from 0.97 hectares of vines planted in 1940 on limestone-rich soils. It was put in bottle in May 2005, and the bottle I tasted was disgorged in June 2017, 145 months later. It has great complexity, with smoky and yeasty notes, open yet subtle and elegant, with a sensation of freshness and harmony you only see in the finest vintages, which tend to be wetter and cooler years. They hadn't had as much rain as 2004 until early 2018. It doesn't feel almost 15 years old, it's still young and lively, with a very compact, integrated palate, with tiny bubbles and balsamic flavors with some Mediterranean herbs and that subtle bitterness that is part of the Xarello signature. This has to be one of the finest vintages of Turó d'en Mota, with great complexity, mocha, nuts, honey, a hint of petrol, pollen... Bravo!! The disgorging information is always available on the back label. 2,907 numbered bottles produced. Drink: 2018-2024. 96+ points

Recaredo keeps working to improve the referencing of the best terroirs in their wines, and the Brut de Brut has been renamed to Serral del Vell, the name of the vineyard where the grapes are sourced for this brut nature. This change was implemented with the 2008 vintage, and at the same time, the wine was admitted in the Paraje Calificado category, an official Cava appellation category created for the wines from specific places that fulfill certain conditions for quality. Recaredo fulfills and exceeds those conditions, and in fact, they are 100% certified for organic and biodynamic agriculture, using autochthonous grapes, manual harvesting, aging for a minimum of 30 months with lees in bottle and using a natural cork for all their wines (all single-harvest and brut nature wines have been certified for 15 years).

What I tasted was an amazing collection of sparkling wines, with one of the best vintages ever of Turó d'en Mota (their flagship) and a rare, one-off 1996 full of complexity and Roquefort-like notes in the nose and palate. As a side note, winemaker Ton Mata started a small family project in 2013 to produce natural sparkling wines with his wife. The first couple of vintages were fermented in Recaredo, and they are now building a small winery of their own."

Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate (236)