“From vines planted in 1977 on the deep but stony soils of the Stein plot, the 2014 Riesling Grand Cru Spiegel opens with a clear, well-defined and elegant nose of crushed stones, herbs and white ripe fruit; but it is also a bit closed two years after the harvest. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, intense and tightly woven Riesling with a pronounced acidity and a pretty coolish, but discreet character at the moment. The finish is intense and concentrated, stimulatingly salty and firm. This is a blue-chip Riesling, a powerful king that is still preparing its regency. Drinking window: 2025-2035. 94 points
Once more, this 18-hectare domaine in Bergholtz has produced two stunning vintages. The 2015 harvest was very short and went from September 7th to October 1st, respectively to the 13th for the Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives. The wines are rich and opulent and partly sweet. There was no Riesling Grand Cru Kitterlé bottled from the 2015 vintage, because the wine was simply too rich and sweet, so the vat was finally sold in bulk. However, the Kessler from the hot Heisse Wanne plot is an age-worthy, world-class Riesling not just in 2014, but also in 2015. Due to my weakening condition, I couldn’t taste any of the 2015 Gewurztraminers so far, of which five have been produced: the Alsace Gewurztraminer, the two Grands Crus Spiegel and Kitterlé, as well as two Vendanges Tardives Saering and Kessler. I will include the quintet in my second part of this year’s Alsace report that will be published in late spring.
Jean Dirler’s 2014 Rieslings are just fabulous: ripe, fresh and elegant, full of tension and complexity. Even the drosophila-damaged Muscat and Gewurztraminer crus are – due to strict selections – much more than just respectable in 2014.”
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (229)