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Massolino Barolo Parafada 2016
£71.49
“The 2016 Barolo Parafada is fabulous. In fact, the 2016 is one of the best – if not the best – Parafadas I have ever tasted at Massolino. The natural richness of this site marries with the translucence of the year to produce a weightless yet powerful, highly nuanced Barolo that hits all the right notes. Dark cherry, lavender, spice, mint, rose petal and licorice develop in the glass, but it is the interplay of richness and lightness that elevates the Parafada into the realm of the truly sublime. I have never tasted a Parafada like this here. What a wine! Drinking window: 2026-2041. 96 points
Massolino turned out set of striking Barolos in 2016. The wines are vibrant and super-expressive of site. In recent years, the Massolinos have moved towards gentler winemaking, which really allows the purity of the fruit, while retaining the classic style the estate is known for. Readers will also want to be on the lookout for the 2014 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda, one of the great wines of that year, but also one of the most profound Rionds Massolino has made to date.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/20)
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Massolino Barolo Parussi 2015
£69.99
“The 2015 Barolo Parussi is the most powerful and immediate of the Massolino 2015 Barolos. Dark cherry, plum, lavender, menthol, spice, tar and licorice fill out the wine’s ample frame effortlessly. In this range, the Parussi is also the Barolo that most clearly shows the natural richness of the year, and it does so to great effect. Plush, sensual and inviting, the 2015 will drink well with minimal cellaring, although time in bottle will only help. Drinking window: 2022-2040. 93 points
Brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino turned out a gorgeous set of 2015 Barolos. The Massolinos gave the 2015s about 21 days on the skins. Both primary and secondary fermentation were done in cement, and the wines were aged in cask. More than those details, though, these Barolos stand out because they are very expressive to site, something that was not easy to achieve in 2015.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/19)
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Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda 2015
£143.95
“The 2015 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is a magnificent wine that shows all the magic this site is so famous for. All the Rionda signatures open in the glass. Sweet dark cherry/plum, lavender, spice, mint and pine meld together in a sensual, beautifully layered Barolo that pushes all the right buttons. The 2015 is going to need a few years to soften, but it is undeniably vivid and arresting in its sheer allure. Drinking window: 2025-2042. 96 points
Massolino’s 2017s are impressive. The Parafada is a bit closed at this stage, but the other 2017s are terrific. One of the recent developments here has been a move towards fermenting in open-top wood vats. It’s hard to say what role that has had with just a few vintages to look at, but the bigger picture is that these wines have never been more finessed. Readers will also want to check out the 2015 Rionda, a Barolo that I think will be even better in a few years’ time.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/21)
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Montevertine 2017
£71.95
“The 2017 Montevertine is rich, creamy and beautifully resonant on the palate. Over the last year it seems to have gained an extra bit of freshness, which is of course such a plus in this very hot, dry vintage. Montevertine is often austere, but the 2017 is unusually open today, not to mention incredibly delicious. There is plenty of tannin beneath all of that vintage 2017 fruit. Even so, opening a bottle young is not a crime by any stretch of the imagination. Black cherry, leather, sweet pipe tobacco, licorice and earthy notes develop with aeration, showing just a glimpse of what is in store for those who can wait. The 2017 is a striking wine in every sense. Floral notes reappear on the finish, adding further dimensions that will continue to unfold over the coming years. Drinking window: 2022-2042. 96 points
These new releases from Montevertine are off the charts. The 2018 Pian del Ciampolo is a terrific start for readers who want to explore the personality and style of the year. It’s a gorgeous wine. Tasted a year later, Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte are dazzling. The wines are rich and expansive, but also retain their distinctive personalities. Montevertine is located in the hills outside Radda, a cool, late-ripening subzone in Chianti Classico where warm, dry conditions are less of an issue than they are elsewhere. I was deeply impressed by what I tasted.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (09/20)
The first significant date in the history of this estate is 1967, when Martino’s father Sergio (a Milanese whose family had made money in steel) bought the Montevertine estate as a holiday home. At that time, estate was perhaps something of a misnomer, since Signor Manetti’s purchase basically consisted of a ramshackle farmhouse and sixty acres or so of neglected farmland. However, there was one other hidden asset in the form of Bruno Bini, who lived on the estate and who became, in those early days, the owner’s right hand man and cellarmaster. In 1968, about an acre with north/northeastern exposure was planted to Sangiovese. In 1971, the first vintage from this estate was shown at Vinitaly to much acclaim and the first vintage of Le Pergole Torte followed in 1977.
In those distant days, Le Pergole Torte was not 100% Sangiovese – in fact, it did not become so until the 1990 vintage. However, Signor Manetti was a devoted protagonist of Sangiovese and its unique power to express the qualities of its native terroir. This was not, of course, the prevailing wisdom: in fact, regulations forbade the making of 100% Sangiovese wines. Instead, they had to be blended with white grape varieties such as Trebbiano. These strictures led directly to the development of the so-called Supertuscans but Le Pergole Torte is a Super-Sangiovese rather than a Supertuscan. The trajectory of this estate had always been towards making an ever better and purer Sangiovese and one which would best express the individual attributes of Radda, which, at 425 metres above sea level, is one of the highest altitude spots in the Chianti Classico appellation.
Sergio’s philosophy of pure Sangiovese always put at him at odds with the regulatory authorities. In 1981, he stopped producing Chianti Classico and left the DOC. Even when the regulations changed in 1995 and the use of white grape varieties in Chianti was finally banned, he and his wines remained steadfastly outside the DOC. In the early days, Sergio was also helped by Giulio Gambelli, who became his consultant from 1971. Signor Gambelli was one of the main exponents of Sangiovese as a mono-varietal at a time when the rules required blending with white grape varieties. He was also a master taster rather than an oenologist, known in his lifetime as “il grande maestro di Sangiovese” or, more affectionately, as “Il Bicchierino” (Little Glass). Signor Gambelli passed away in January 2012, so the 2011 vintage was his last. Today, the total estate comprises roughly fifty acres, divided into nine parcels. There are three wines: Pian dell Ciampolo, Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte.
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Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2017
£159.99
“The 2017 Le Pergole Torte is a wine of pure and total sensuality. I imagine the 2017 is one of those wines that will always offer tremendous pleasure. Pliant and inviting, with soft, voluptuous curves, the 2017 is off the charts gorgeous. Layers of deep Sangiovese fruit gradually reveal themselves with air. The flavors are so intense but also so primary. I wouldn’t touch a bottle before age ten. Readers lucky enough to find the 2017 should not hesitate, as it is magnificent. I can’t imagine anyone who loves Le Pergole Torte not wanting a good supply of the 2017 in the cellar. The 2017 has come together beautifully over the last year. Drinking window: 2025-2047. 98 points
These new releases from Montevertine are off the charts. The 2018 Pian del Ciampolo is a terrific start for readers who want to explore the personality and style of the year. It’s a gorgeous wine. Tasted a year later, Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte are dazzling. The wines are rich and expansive, but also retain their distinctive personalities. Montevertine is located in the hills outside Radda, a cool, late-ripening subzone in Chianti Classico where warm, dry conditions are less of an issue than they are elsewhere. I was deeply impressed by what I tasted.”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (09/20)
The first significant date in the history of this estate is 1967, when Martino’s father Sergio (a Milanese whose family had made money in steel) bought the Montevertine estate as a holiday home. At that time, estate was perhaps something of a misnomer, since Signor Manetti’s purchase basically consisted of a ramshackle farmhouse and sixty acres or so of neglected farmland. However, there was one other hidden asset in the form of Bruno Bini, who lived on the estate and who became, in those early days, the owner’s right hand man and cellarmaster. In 1968, about an acre with north/northeastern exposure was planted to Sangiovese. In 1971, the first vintage from this estate was shown at Vinitaly to much acclaim and the first vintage of Le Pergole Torte followed in 1977.
In those distant days, Le Pergole Torte was not 100% Sangiovese – in fact, it did not become so until the 1990 vintage. However, Signor Manetti was a devoted protagonist of Sangiovese and its unique power to express the qualities of its native terroir. This was not, of course, the prevailing wisdom: in fact, regulations forbade the making of 100% Sangiovese wines. Instead, they had to be blended with white grape varieties such as Trebbiano. These strictures led directly to the development of the so-called Supertuscans but Le Pergole Torte is a Super-Sangiovese rather than a Supertuscan. The trajectory of this estate had always been towards making an ever better and purer Sangiovese and one which would best express the individual attributes of Radda, which, at 425 metres above sea level, is one of the highest altitude spots in the Chianti Classico appellation.
Sergio’s philosophy of pure Sangiovese always put at him at odds with the regulatory authorities. In 1981, he stopped producing Chianti Classico and left the DOC. Even when the regulations changed in 1995 and the use of white grape varieties in Chianti was finally banned, he and his wines remained steadfastly outside the DOC. In the early days, Sergio was also helped by Giulio Gambelli, who became his consultant from 1971. Signor Gambelli was one of the main exponents of Sangiovese as a mono-varietal at a time when the rules required blending with white grape varieties. He was also a master taster rather than an oenologist, known in his lifetime as “il grande maestro di Sangiovese” or, more affectionately, as “Il Bicchierino” (Little Glass). Signor Gambelli passed away in January 2012, so the 2011 vintage was his last. Today, the total estate comprises roughly fifty acres, divided into nine parcels. There are three wines: Pian dell Ciampolo, Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte.
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Mullineux Schist Chenin Blanc 2021
£51.95
“The 2021 Chenin Blanc Schist come from the Roundstone Estate on rocky, tile-like stones that are less water retentive and produce more compact vines with smaller bunches and extra structure. It has a more austere bouquet than the Granite, slate-like and earthier by comparison. The palate is taut and saline on the entry, quite strict with a little more nerve than the Granite, pointed towards the finish with a tingle of stem ginger on the aftertaste. This will require a little more bottle age. Very fine. Drinking window: 2025-2030. 93 points
The indefatigable Andrea Mullineux guided me through her latest releases at Roundstone, their farm in Swartland. (If you are eager to read notes on back vintages, verticals of their red blends will be published in due course.) Mullineux farms her vines organically, or they are under conversion, including their entry-level Kloof Street in future vintages, though that will not be stated on the label. First, I asked her about the 2021 vintage. “It was a late start of spring,” she tells me. “It was cold but relatively dry until the end of July and August. August and September saw a bit of rain that led to later budding. There was consistent rain between sunny periods in September, so the vines had large canopies that acted as solar panels, therefore everyone had to be careful with canopy management. It was relatively cold up until Christmas. On January 1 we had the first of several heat waves – not long extended ones – more like waves of heat spikes. There were a lot of grapes, but nothing was going through véraison, that ended up three weeks later than normal for earlier ripening varieties like Chenin Blanc and Syrah, whereas later varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay were about on time. You had to make sure you did not miss the right moment to pick whilst keeping in mind not being trigger happy, just because harvest is later, the Syrah by three weeks. This created a concertina affect: all the whites coming in, a short pause and then all the reds. It’s quite a textural vintage with deep colours. On the second day of maceration, there was full colour extraction. The 2020 was a classic vintage with a greater number of warmer days than 2021. There was no picking pressure. We picked the Syrah over 14 days instead of the usual 10 as there was less disease pressure. We had no idea about the lockdown, but we had an amazing team in the winery. There was a natural phenolic ripeness.”
Tasting through Mullineux Family Wines and their Leeu Passant project in Franschhoek, unsurprisingly, I found a very consistent set of wines that are evolving more individuality. Indeed, I commented to Mullineux that I cannot remember a vintage where there are such distinguishable differences between the Iron, Schist and Granite cuvées. In that respect, the 2020 Schist Syrah is a knockout, one of the finest I have tasted from Mullineux at this stage. Their Kloof Street remains a supremely affordable entry-point for many, whilst their two sweet wines, their straw wine and the third iteration of their solera – Olerasay – are ridiculously good, the latter flirting with perfection.”
Neal Martin, Vinous (09/22)
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Mullineux Syrah 2020
£31.49
“The 2020 Syrah is virtually crushed whole cluster (no carbonic) from mainly schist soils, around 70% of the blend. This is well-defined and focused on the nose, red berry fruit intermixed with light ember and garrigues-like aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity and grip with a Cornas-like finish leaning more towards black than red fruit and cracked black pepper on the aftertaste. This will give 20 years’ drinking pleasure. Drinking window: 2024-2040. 92 points
The indefatigable Andrea Mullineux guided me through her latest releases at Roundstone, their farm in Swartland. (If you are eager to read notes on back vintages, verticals of their red blends will be published in due course.) Mullineux farms her vines organically, or they are under conversion, including their entry-level Kloof Street in future vintages, though that will not be stated on the label. First, I asked her about the 2021 vintage. “It was a late start of spring,” she tells me. “It was cold but relatively dry until the end of July and August. August and September saw a bit of rain that led to later budding. There was consistent rain between sunny periods in September, so the vines had large canopies that acted as solar panels, therefore everyone had to be careful with canopy management. It was relatively cold up until Christmas. On January 1 we had the first of several heat waves – not long extended ones – more like waves of heat spikes. There were a lot of grapes, but nothing was going through véraison, that ended up three weeks later than normal for earlier ripening varieties like Chenin Blanc and Syrah, whereas later varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay were about on time. You had to make sure you did not miss the right moment to pick whilst keeping in mind not being trigger happy, just because harvest is later, the Syrah by three weeks. This created a concertina affect: all the whites coming in, a short pause and then all the reds. It’s quite a textural vintage with deep colours. On the second day of maceration, there was full colour extraction. The 2020 was a classic vintage with a greater number of warmer days than 2021. There was no picking pressure. We picked the Syrah over 14 days instead of the usual 10 as there was less disease pressure. We had no idea about the lockdown, but we had an amazing team in the winery. There was a natural phenolic ripeness.”
Tasting through Mullineux Family Wines and their Leeu Passant project in Franschhoek, unsurprisingly, I found a very consistent set of wines that are evolving more individuality. Indeed, I commented to Mullineux that I cannot remember a vintage where there are such distinguishable differences between the Iron, Schist and Granite cuvées. In that respect, the 2020 Schist Syrah is a knockout, one of the finest I have tasted from Mullineux at this stage. Their Kloof Street remains a supremely affordable entry-point for many, whilst their two sweet wines, their straw wine and the third iteration of their solera – Olerasay – are ridiculously good, the latter flirting with perfection.”
Neal Martin, Vinous (09/22)
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Niepoort Redoma Branco Reserva 2021
£38.95
Review to follow
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Oddero Barbaresco Gallina 2016
£49.99
“The 2016 Barbaresco Gallina is gorgeous. Silky, perfumed and beautifully layered, the 2016 has much to offer. Rose petal, licorice, mint and lavender notes are nicely lifted in a silky, super-expressive Barbaresco that is going to be very hard to resist in the early going. More than anything, though, the 2016 Barbaresco is a terrific example of just how far the Oddero wines have come in the last few years. Drinking window: 2020-2036. 93 points
Cristina Oddero has been through more than her fair share of ups and downs, but she is now making the most consistently outstanding wines I have tasted here since I first visited the estate nearly twenty years ago. The trajectory in recent years has been nothing short of remarkable. It’s great to see Oddero emerge from a lengthy period in which family tension made it impossible for the wines to achieve their potential. Readers who enjoy fine, classically built wines will want to check out Oddero. Bravo!”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/19)
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Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2017
£86.49
“The 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a beautiful wine that captures the natural intensity of the year while maintaining the style of the site. Silky aromatic and wonderfully nuanced the 2017 Rocche di Castiglione has so much to offer. Lavender, rose petal, spice and kirsch are some of the notes that meld together in this open-knit, inviting Barolo from Oddero. Drinking window: 2025-2042. 93 points”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/21)
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Oddero Barolo Villero 2017
£67.45
“The 2017 Barolo Villero is delicate and lifted in this vintage, with impeccable balance and tons of class. Villero is not an easy site to find balance, but the 2017 Oddero sure has it. Sweet cherry, crushed raspberry, rose petal, orange peel and cinnamon give the 2017 lovely aromatic nuance to match its mid-weight personality. Drinking window: 2025-2037. 93 points!”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (02/21)
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Pierre Gonon Saint-Joseph 2019
£159.95
“Gonon’s 2019 Saint Joseph retains the typical floral signature on the nose, but it is more dark-fruited than usual, with notes of black cherries, blackberries and even black olives. It’s medium to full-bodied, the first vintage recorded over 14% alcohol, according to Jean Gonon (14.2%). Concentrated, rich and velvety in feel, it boasts a long, gently chewy finish and should age well. Drink: 2025-2038. 94+ points
When I visited with Jean Gonon on September 17, 2021, harvest was yet to commence. Sugar levels were around 13 or 13.5 degrees in the whites and only 11.5 degrees in the reds. “We had this in 2012 and 2013, and the wines were not bad,” said Gonon. “It could be like a vintage from the 1980s.”
The emphasis at Gonon remains on the vineyards. While he said recent years have seen improvements in how others work their vines, he expressed some reservations as well. “People have abandoned chemical spray but don’t work the soils because it’s too expensive, and the vines suffer. Bad habits become big problems in difficult vintages,” he said. The domaine has been certified organic since 2010.
Gonon finds that 2018 and 2020 are somewhat similar in style, but he said 2019 stands apart for its concentration and presumed longevity. “C’est une cuvée pour garder.” About 40% of the domaine’s grapes come from Saint-Jean de Muzols, 50% come from Tournon and just 10% come from the family’s home village of Mauves.“

Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (01/22)
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