San Giusto a Rentennano Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2025 (500ml)
£27.95Awaiting a review
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San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo 2021
£94.95“The 2021 Percarlo is every bit as stunning from bottle as it was from barrel. Rich and vivid in the glass, with striking complexity, the 2021 is a fine follow-up to the 2020. The 2021 is a bit tight relative to the 2020, but that is not a bad thing at all. If anything, I look forward to comparing these two monumental wines in a few years’ time. For now, the 2021 impresses with its purity of Sangiovese fruit and mind-blowing balance. Hints of kirsch, blood orange and pomegranate linger on the vivid, exceptionally polished finish. What a wine. Drinking window: 2028-2042. 99 points”
Antonio Galloni, Vinous (07/24)
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Sanguineto I & II Rosso di Montepulciano 2021
£29.95“The 2021 Rosso di Montepulciano is dusty and coy, requiring coaxing to unlock its violet-tinged blackberry and lavender tones. This is a ripe and high-energy effort with silken textures, masses of mineral-tinged red berries and exotic spices, taking on a crunchy sensation toward the close. It finishes staining and long, leaving a medicinal cherry resonance and a sweet herbal flourish. The sun-kissed nature of the vintage has imparted the 2021 with a youthfully seductive allure. 80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo. Drinking window: 2023-2028. 91 points”
Eric Guido, Vinous (10/23)
“There are few producers who, when you visit them, you can actually feel the energy and passion that they bring to the vineyard and winery; and so it was with Dora Forsoni, of Poderi Sanguineto I & II. If you want to talk about under-the-radar in Montepulciano, then you’re in the right place. When looking at the team at Poderi Sanguineto I & II, all four of them on the day I was there, what you see are salt-of-the-earth farmers, as well as a small village of vineyard dogs and cats that peer down at you from barn windows, balconies and perches. When you speak to them, you might be surprised to find that they’re amazed that you came to visit them instead of one of the many well-marketed and funded producers of the region. Dora Forsoni, now at the age of 72, makes honest wines using the same traditions that her father taught her as a child in the vineyards and cellars. The family farm covers fifty hectares, yet only six are planted to vines. Having started working in the vineyards in 1968, she knows these vines like they are a part of her family, and treats them as such. You won’t see any organic certification on these wines, but that’s because they simply don’t believe in the same guidelines of what an “organic” wine is. In the end, Dora Forsoni will tell you that she lives amongst these vines and loves to drink her own wine, so why add anything unhealthy to them? The primary red grape planted here is obviously Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese), but also Mammolo and Canaiolo. There’s also Malvasia Verde, Malvasia Bianca, Biancame, Trebbiano and Grechetto planted, which today go into the Bianco, but were originally used by her father long ago to soften the Vino Nobile. An all-natural approach continues in the winery with indigenous yeast fermentations completed in cement, at which point the juice is moved to large oak botti of various sizes. From there, she decides which barrels will be Rosso, which will be Vino Nobile and which will be Riserva. Other than the moment that decision is made, the only difference is the amount of time each of these wines matures in barrel. Dora Forsoni will tell you, “one year, one wine, three expressions”. It’s really that simple, or is it? Because the fact is that some of the region’s best wines are being made by this group of humble farmers who prefer honest work and indulging in the fruit of their labors at the end of the day over technology and trends. Tasting the incredibly pretty 2018s here made me feel like swooning, but even more exciting was a preview of the 2019 Vino Nobile from barrel and the Rosso from bottle.”
Eric Guido, Vinous (12/21)
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Sanguineto I & II Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2019
£54.95“Classic to the core, the 2019 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva smolders up with a bouquet that mixes crushed violet, smoke, cedar, rose petal and saddle leather scents. This shows the power and radiance of the vintage, offset by a core of cool-toned acidity that adds an abundance of energy and lift. Red berry fruit penetrate deeply, leaving a mineral tinge that tugs at the cheeks. Long, sapid and structured, the 2019 flexes its imposing tannins but remains fresh. This tapers off with a bitter blackberry note that lingers quite long. Bury this unbridled beast in the cellar. It’s a classic in the making. Prugonolo, Mammolo. Drinking window: 2027-2038. 95+ points
The wines of Poderi Sanguineto I & II are back to form with the 2021 and 2022 vintages. This is natural, non-interventionist winemaking to the extreme, so vintage variation is really something to be expected. This year, I tasted the power trio of the 2019 Riserva, 2021 Vino Nobile and 2022 Rosso. Each wine is spectacular and shows the best attributes of the vintage married to Sanguineto’s unbridled, energetic character. These wines are not to be missed.”
Eric Guido, Vinous (02/25)
“There are few producers who, when you visit them, you can actually feel the energy and passion that they bring to the vineyard and winery; and so it was with Dora Forsoni, of Poderi Sanguineto I & II. If you want to talk about under-the-radar in Montepulciano, then you’re in the right place. When looking at the team at Poderi Sanguineto I & II, all four of them on the day I was there, what you see are salt-of-the-earth farmers, as well as a small village of vineyard dogs and cats that peer down at you from barn windows, balconies and perches. When you speak to them, you might be surprised to find that they’re amazed that you came to visit them instead of one of the many well-marketed and funded producers of the region. Dora Forsoni, now at the age of 72, makes honest wines using the same traditions that her father taught her as a child in the vineyards and cellars. The family farm covers fifty hectares, yet only six are planted to vines. Having started working in the vineyards in 1968, she knows these vines like they are a part of her family, and treats them as such. You won’t see any organic certification on these wines, but that’s because they simply don’t believe in the same guidelines of what an “organic” wine is. In the end, Dora Forsoni will tell you that she lives amongst these vines and loves to drink her own wine, so why add anything unhealthy to them? The primary red grape planted here is obviously Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese), but also Mammolo and Canaiolo. There’s also Malvasia Verde, Malvasia Bianca, Biancame, Trebbiano and Grechetto planted, which today go into the Bianco, but were originally used by her father long ago to soften the Vino Nobile. An all-natural approach continues in the winery with indigenous yeast fermentations completed in cement, at which point the juice is moved to large oak botti of various sizes. From there, she decides which barrels will be Rosso, which will be Vino Nobile and which will be Riserva. Other than the moment that decision is made, the only difference is the amount of time each of these wines matures in barrel. Dora Forsoni will tell you, “one year, one wine, three expressions”. It’s really that simple, or is it? Because the fact is that some of the region’s best wines are being made by this group of humble farmers who prefer honest work and indulging in the fruit of their labors at the end of the day over technology and trends. Tasting the incredibly pretty 2018s here made me feel like swooning, but even more exciting was a preview of the 2019 Vino Nobile from barrel and the Rosso from bottle.”
Eric Guido, Vinous (12/21)
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Santadi Terre Brune 2020
£63.95“Dark and intense, the 2020 Carignano del Sulcis Terre Brune is a brooding effort, with ashen stone, cedar shavings, tobacco and dried blueberry forming its bouquet. This is velvety in texture with cool-toned acidity to balance. Edgy tannins resonate through the dramatically long and structured finale, while mentholated herbal tones add freshness. Patience will be required but also rewarded. Drinking window: 2027-2032. 93 points
Despite its significant size (650 hectares of vines across multiple appellations), Santadi produces a highly successful portfolio of wines, all the way from the value category to the top shelf. Santadi turns out a compelling mix of regional varieties, but it’s their Carignano holdings in Sulcis that give rise to the crown jewel in the lineup, the Terre Brune. I’m also a big fan of their Cannonau di Sardegna Noras, a superb value wine that can compete with Grenache from around the world and ages remarkably well. Both wines see some well-judged barrique-aging.”
Eric Guido, Vinous (04/25)
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Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly-Fuisse Aux Charmes 2021
£44.95“The 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Charmes, previously labeled Les Ronchevats, has another lively bouquet with red apple, Anjou pear, blood orange and light Vervain scents. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity. There’s real tension here with a similar, saline finish as the Les Tilliers. Enjoy over the next decade. Drinking window: 2023-2034. 91 points
Back to the veranda of Domaine Saumaize Michelin in the shadow of the Roc de Vergisson in the namesake village. Christine and Roger Saumaize tend over 9.5 hectares, all biodynamically farmed, with a focus on single vineyard parcels. We were joined by daughter Lisa Saumaize, who came aboard the domaine in 2020, together with her brother Vivien. “It was one of the smallest vintages of my career, between 25-30hL/ha after the frost,” Roger Saumaize rues. “We don’t usually suffer frost as our vines are located at altitude. It was -7°C and -8°C. It was so cold that it damaged the branches in the vine and the vessels inside. Vine growth was late and disorganized so for a long time, the vineyards looked as if it was winter. Spring was very wet. We used the second-generation fruit, which ripened slowly…but it ripened. Because the rain was continuous, it inhibited the spread of mildew because there was no time for the spores to contaminate. We didn’t start harvesting until the end of September. The parameters were for a very ordinary growing season, but the quality was uniquely good. For white wines, I’ve never seen a great vintage from visually perfect bunches…you need imperfections. Maybe only one-third of the fruit could be described as fully ripe. Everything was aged in barrel this year with very little new oak. We use the lunar calendar for the pruning, racking and bottling.”
Readers should be alerted to the quality of the Pouilly-Fuissé Les Crays in 2021 – complex and engaging, whilst the domaine’s Saint-Véran and Mâcon-Vergisson will probably be more suited for earlier drinking.“
Neal Martin, Vinous (08/21)
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Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly-Fuisse Clos Sur La Roche Premier Cru 2021
£49.95“The 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche 1er Cru has one of the most transparent bouquets, perhaps bestowed the most mineralité. Orange zest, nettle and blackcurrant leaf aromas develop in the glass. The palate is well-balanced, linear and saline, delivering plenty of energy toward the finish that lingers in the mouth. This is going to be very satisfying. Excellent. Drinking window: 2024-2036. 92 points
Back to the veranda of Domaine Saumaize Michelin in the shadow of the Roc de Vergisson in the namesake village. Christine and Roger Saumaize tend over 9.5 hectares, all biodynamically farmed, with a focus on single vineyard parcels. We were joined by daughter Lisa Saumaize, who came aboard the domaine in 2020, together with her brother Vivien. “It was one of the smallest vintages of my career, between 25-30hL/ha after the frost,” Roger Saumaize rues. “We don’t usually suffer frost as our vines are located at altitude. It was -7°C and -8°C. It was so cold that it damaged the branches in the vine and the vessels inside. Vine growth was late and disorganized so for a long time, the vineyards looked as if it was winter. Spring was very wet. We used the second-generation fruit, which ripened slowly…but it ripened. Because the rain was continuous, it inhibited the spread of mildew because there was no time for the spores to contaminate. We didn’t start harvesting until the end of September. The parameters were for a very ordinary growing season, but the quality was uniquely good. For white wines, I’ve never seen a great vintage from visually perfect bunches…you need imperfections. Maybe only one-third of the fruit could be described as fully ripe. Everything was aged in barrel this year with very little new oak. We use the lunar calendar for the pruning, racking and bottling.”
Readers should be alerted to the quality of the Pouilly-Fuissé Les Crays in 2021 – complex and engaging, whilst the domaine’s Saint-Véran and Mâcon-Vergisson will probably be more suited for earlier drinking.”
Neal Martin, Vinous (08/23)
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Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly-Fuisse Premier Cru Vers Cras 2021
£47.95“Back to the veranda of Domaine Saumaize Michelin in the shadow of the Roc de Vergisson in the namesake village. Christine and Roger Saumaize tend over 9.5 hectares, all biodynamically farmed, with a focus on single vineyard parcels. We were joined by daughter Lisa Saumaize, who came aboard the domaine in 2020, together with her brother Vivien. “It was one of the smallest vintages of my career, between 25-30hL/ha after the frost,” Roger Saumaize rues. “We don’t usually suffer frost as our vines are located at altitude. It was -7°C and -8°C. It was so cold that it damaged the branches in the vine and the vessels inside. Vine growth was late and disorganized so for a long time, the vineyards looked as if it was winter. Spring was very wet. We used the second-generation fruit, which ripened slowly…but it ripened. Because the rain was continuous, it inhibited the spread of mildew because there was no time for the spores to contaminate. We didn’t start harvesting until the end of September. The parameters were for a very ordinary growing season, but the quality was uniquely good. For white wines, I’ve never seen a great vintage from visually perfect bunches…you need imperfections. Maybe only one-third of the fruit could be described as fully ripe. Everything was aged in barrel this year with very little new oak. We use the lunar calendar for the pruning, racking and bottling.”
Readers should be alerted to the quality of the Pouilly-Fuissé Les Crays in 2021 – complex and engaging, whilst the domaine’s Saint-Véran and Mâcon-Vergisson will probably be more suited for earlier drinking.“
Neal Martin, Vinous (08/23)
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Saumaize-Michelin Saint-Veran Les Creches 2022
£35.95“The 2022 Saint-Véran Les Créches has a fine mineral-driven bouquet with more terroir expression than the Macon-Vergisson. The palate is well-balanced with a keen line of acidity, lightly spiced, quite linear and strict towards the end. That prompts me to suggest affording this another 12 months in bottle. Drinking window: 2025-2030. 88 points
This time, the focus at Domaine Saumaize Michelin was on the 2022s. I also tasted a mixture of 2023s from barrel, which I will leave for my next report. Christine Michelin told me how they spray white clay on the vines, which acts as a sun protector. “It was only done in 2022 due to the warmth, but it was too close to harvest to use in 2023,” she explained. “We started picking at 5am, our pickers using headlight torches, and we used a cooling unit in 2023.” I spotted rows of demi-jeans lined up in their cellar; they only represent between 5% and 8% of the production.”
Neal Martin, Vinous (08/24)
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Scions of Sinai Granietsteen Chenin Blanc 2022
£37.95“The 2022 Granietsteen is pure dry-farmed Chenin bush vines planted in 1978 around 3.5km from the ocean, matured in large concrete eggs for nine months on the lees. The captivating bouquet has hints of lemon curd and lemon thyme, a light sea spray influence coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well-judged acidity, very harmonious with a saline core and a tensile finish. Paradoxically understated, yet it makes its presence felt. Superb. Drinking window: 2025-2045. 93 points
This Helderberg-based producer was one of my major discoveries last year, and so, naturally, I wanted to see winemaker Bernhard Bredell to taste his 2022s. These are marvelous, soulful, beautifully crafted wines from favored old vine sites, consistent across the board from the Cinsault-based Heldervallei to the brilliant Swanesan from dry-famed bush vines. Perhaps one of the most arresting wines is the 2022 Gramadoelas, Grenache Blanc from schist soils that I could have spent all night drinking. This is rapidly becoming one of Stellenbosch’s leading names.”
Neal Martin, Vinous (11/23)
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