“The NV 20 Year Old Tawny Port was bottled in 2016 with a long cork. On first taste, I liked this far more than the 1997 Colheita reviewed this issue (about the same age). This has a bit more weight, a bit more intensity of complex flavors, a hint of brandy and a bit more power. That said, the Colheita stands out more for its texture and freshness. I personally liked the balance a bit better on the 1997, but they are both awfully good and each will justly have their fans. Or, resolve the problem by buying some of each. There’s no right answer–and no wrong one. Drink: 2017-2045. 92 points”
“The 2016 Bioma Vinha Velha Vintage Port is not set to be bottled for several months, which is a little too far in the future by my normal protocols. It is the final blend, though, and it is worth sneaking this beauty into the 2016 report this issue. This single-plot Porto is a worthy competitor to the fine Ports in this vintage and to the 2015 Bioma (Niepoort did not declare his normal blended Vintage Port in 2016). Deep, very concentrated and powerful, this is chock-full of brilliant fruit and flavor. It’s intense, rich, delicious and superb. This will be released in the spring of 2019, lagging behind most of the 2016s. It will be worth the wait. P.S. I had a quick look at the 2017. It’s a long way from being ready, admittedly, but it may well be even better. We will have fun arguing over the 2015, 2016 and 2017 as the years march on. Drink: 2027-2070. 95-97 points
Niepoort in 2016 only made Bioma and did not make his typical blend. Look for his 2017s. Regarding the tawnies, remember that the drinking windows are just placeholders. Tawnies age well. The longer they are in barrel, the better they age. As long as the cork does not fail, they may hold more or less indefinitely, which is hard to predict. I add a little extra time as they get older, but it’s just a tip to illustrate the category. It is not exactly precise. The beauty of end-date drinking windows for Port, of course, is that no one can yell at me if I’m wrong.”
“The 2007 Colheita Tawny Port was bottled in 2018 with a long cork and 90 grams of residual sugar. This, basically a ten-year tawny, has typical freshness but above average complexity and just a little more concentration. Easy and dryish, this drinks well in a very balanced and refined style. Drink: 2018-2040. 90 points
Niepoort in 2016 only made Bioma and did not make his typical blend. Look for his 2017s. Regarding the tawnies, remember that the drinking windows are just placeholders. Tawnies age well. The longer they are in barrel, the better they age. As long as the cork does not fail, they may hold more or less indefinitely, which is hard to predict. I add a little extra time as they get older, but it’s just a tip to illustrate the category. It is not exactly precise. The beauty of end-date drinking windows for Port, of course, is that no one can yell at me if I’m wrong.”
“The 2017 Vintage Port is a field blend from old vines (80 to 100 years old). It comes in with 89 grams per liter of residual sugar. This was set for bottling in two weeks, but it was the final blend. Even when open for a couple of days, this was still tight, muscular and concentrated, grabbing the palate and never letting go. On opening, it was fragrant and delicious, but even then, there was plenty of muscle and evident concentration. The concentration and power merely improved as it aired out—unlike a lot of 2016s (which year Niepoort did not declare). Tasting it after several days open showed that it shut down and closed up in terms of expressiveness, but it definitively proved that it’s an old-school, long-haul wine. Dry, stern and long on the finish, this is brilliant. It is hard to think of any basis on which this is not perfection just now—Niepoort says it is the best he’s ever made. It’s certainly the best I’ve seen from him, and it is a leading candidate for “Wine of the Vintage,” although certainly not the only one. Finally, this is going to require patience. Nothing about it says “drink me now.” It should age brilliantly. If you lack a cellar and patience, look away. Drink: 2035-2085. 99-100 points
If you’re wondering where the Bioma that I spoke of last year is, it is still not bottled and still not the final blend (so, not reviewed). It will be bottled in January.”
“The 2017 Vintage Port is a field blend from old vines (80 to 100 years old). It comes in with 89 grams per liter of residual sugar. This was set for bottling in two weeks, but it was the final blend. Even when open for a couple of days, this was still tight, muscular and concentrated, grabbing the palate and never letting go. On opening, it was fragrant and delicious, but even then, there was plenty of muscle and evident concentration. The concentration and power merely improved as it aired out—unlike a lot of 2016s (which year Niepoort did not declare). Tasting it after several days open showed that it shut down and closed up in terms of expressiveness, but it definitively proved that it’s an old-school, long-haul wine. Dry, stern and long on the finish, this is brilliant. It is hard to think of any basis on which this is not perfection just now—Niepoort says it is the best he’s ever made. It’s certainly the best I’ve seen from him, and it is a leading candidate for “Wine of the Vintage,” although certainly not the only one. Finally, this is going to require patience. Nothing about it says “drink me now.” It should age brilliantly. If you lack a cellar and patience, look away. Drink: 2035-2085. 99-100 points
If you’re wondering where the Bioma that I spoke of last year is, it is still not bottled and still not the final blend (so, not reviewed). It will be bottled in January.”
