“With Catherine Breton’s roots in Vouvray and her husband Pierre’s in Bourgueil, theirs is marriage of natural wine superstars. The Bretons are famed producers of both Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, and they’ve been deeply committed to biodynamic winegrowing since 1994 (having been organic since 1991). It’s way of life. In fact, when I visited, Catherine said worriedly, “Today is maybe not a good day to taste on the biodynamic calendar.” Unlike some fellow natural winemakers, the Bretons are committed to bottling appellation wines, and not Vin de France. “We try to stay in the appellations,” Catherine said. “But it’s very difficult.””

Jason Wilson, Vinous (07/20)