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The Sadie Family Mev. Kirsten 2015

The Sadie Family Mev. Kirsten 2015

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"The 2015 Old Vine Series Mev Kirsten, which comes from the heaviest soils, has an attractive bouquet with yellow flower and hazelnut aromas, just a hint of gingerbread that emerges with time. Perhaps this is the most mercurial aromatics of Eben's 2015s. The palate beautifully balanced once again, a crisp line of acidity, just a slight viscosity here with hints of clear honey and quince jelly on the long and tender finish. Very fine, but I think it has more to give. Drink: 2020-2036. 93+ points

I met up with Eben Sadie in Swartland to taste his 2015s. For more detailed information, I would refer readers to my South Africa report in 2015. When we met, he was as philosophical and sanguine as usual, though this was a few days before news broke that the Paardeberg Mountains are now threatened by two licensed, sand-mining enterprises that will directly impact his vineyards. Eben had briefly mentioned this specter in previous visits. Now it is fast becoming a reality and it seems outrageous that some of South Africa's greatest vineyards might be martyred for the sake of short-term profits. Still, he had other problems when we met. "The weather is getting to me," he told me, referring to the ongoing drought conditions that must put a lot of pressure upon his vines. "We started planting our own vineyards. The Old Vine Series aside, we want to produce at least 50% of our two signature wines ourselves in keeping with the notion of terroir. But I will never stop doing fermages, because the best soils are always "out there". But it would be good for stability reasons and you can push harder with you own vines. The cellar is all finished now. Paladius is all from clay amphora and concrete eggs, so it is now oak free. We are doing 80% rather than 100% whole bunch, because there seems to be a lack of juice in the early stages, when you have no alcohol and carbonic gas. We are also making more progress with the new varietals such Grillot and Negroamaro. The results are very interesting, although it will take much longer than I thought. You have to plant what belongs." Need I say much about Sadie's 2015s? I means, the adjectives, the numbers say it all... don't they? That these rare and beautiful bottlings continue to be sold at prices that would not encourage a Bordeaux Classed Growth proprietor out of his bed each morning is still quite unbelievable, especially when you've seen the passion and commitment up close. When I broached the subject of price, Eben was typically nonchalant and expressed no desire to fleece customers or extract as much profit as possible. Sadly, I doubt the managers of the sand-mining company will have the same approach."

Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (230)