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Yves Cuilleron Cote-Rotie La Madiniere 2017

Yves Cuilleron Cote-Rotie La Madiniere 2017

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"Deep, brilliant magenta. High-pitched, minerally dark berry and floral scents are complicated by suggestions of black pepper and allspice. Offers intense, spice-laced blackberry, cherry and floral pastille flavors that deepen and pick up a sweet hint of salty olive with air. The lively, emphatically fruity finish displays impressive clarity and supple, even tannins that add shape and gentle grip. 92-93 points

No other grower/producer works in as many northern Rhône AOCs as the restless and ambitious Yves Cuilleron. With 75 hectares of vineyard holdings in Seyssuel, Côte-Rôtie (eight hectares), Condrieu (12 hectares), Saint-Joseph Blanc (seven hectares), Saint-Joseph Rouge (20 hectares), Crozes-Hermitage Rouge (three hectares), Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (one hectare), Cornas (one and a half hectares) and Saint-Péray (three hectares), not to mention IGP Collines Rhodaniennes (19.5 hectares), all Cuilleron is missing is Hermitage Rouge and Hermitage Blanc to have a full dance card. What’s even more impressive is the consistently outstanding work that Cuilleronhas been doing in all of these disparate appellations. Then, there’s his partnership in the ever-expanding Les Vins de Vienne, which he launched in 1996 with fellow vignerons Pierre Gaillard, François Villard and Pierre-Jean Villa. Not bad for starting off with a more four hectares in 1987! Cuilleron’s style has been steadily moving away from power and richness to a more elegant and even restrained feel over the past decade. He deftly handled the hot 2017 vintage, producing fruit-forward wines of richness, which was pretty much unavoidable, but with fine detail, energy and harmonious tannins. In fact I didn’t find them that far off, weight- and power-wise, than their 2016 siblings, which were the result of a much more benign growing season."

Josh Raynolds, Vinous (07/19)