Domaine aux Moines Savennieres Roche aux Moines 2023

“Tessa Laroche’s parents bought Domaine aux Moines in 1981. The domaine’s style has changed with the times: it is now organic, and biodynamic farming is practiced. These days, you won’t appreciate any botrytized fruit in the wine, and with the reduced use of sulfur, malolactic is common. The wines are naturally fermented in large-format oak, producing a full, powerful style that marks a contrast with the Savennières of yesteryear, being ready to drink soon after release. Since 2018, Tessa Laroche has done separate bottlings of her domaine wine with and without SO2. The reason, she explains, is that she “was thirsty”. The no-added sulfite expression is more open upon release. A relatively recent addition to the range is Le Berceau des Fées, which is produced from younger vines and fermented in tank. In 2019, the alcohol was 15%, and in 2023, it was just 11.5%, so the style has accordingly altered!”

Rebecca Gibb, Vinous (07/24)