“The 2018 Chardonnay Isobel Charles Heintz Vineyard captures all of the grandeur and exoticism that make the best wines from this site so incredibly compelling. Apricot, white flowers, white pepper and marzipan envelop the palate. As always, the Heintz Chardonnay is marked by a very distinctive feeling of oiliness. The 2018 is all class. Drinking window: 2021-2028. 95 points
My tastings at DuMOL are usually pretty epic, as I sample two vintages of pretty much the entire range. The pandemic made a visit this year impossible, so this report focuses on the bottled 2018s. The wines are brilliant across the board, just as they were from barrel. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2018 as a year with moderate temperatures, especially at harvest time, which allowed for picking tiny sections of vineyards in small, separate passes. From top to bottom, this is an impressive lineup.”
“The 2016 Chardonnay Estate Vineyard is rich and creamy, with a hint of reduction that adds an intriguing upper register of freshness. Orchard fruit, mint, white pepper and chalk are nicely woven throughout. The Estate is a wonderfully complete Chardonnay from DuMol that will drink well for many years to come. Drinking window: 2019-2026. 95 points
Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.”
“The 2016 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard is an absolutely stellar wine. Dark and also quite savory in the glass, the 2016 presents a super-intriguing range of aromas, flavors and textures. The Estate has a Syrah-like feeling of density and darkness that is incredibly appealing. Huge tannins need time to soften. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with a magnificent Pinot Noir. Drinking window: 2021-2031. 96 points
Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.”
“The 2016 Pinot Noir Finn is dense, pliant and super-expressive, with superb depth and all of the textural resonance that makes Russian River Pinot so undeniably alluring. Bright red cherry, plum, dried rose petal and spice all develop with time in the glass. The 2016 is even more impressive from bottle than it was from barrel. Best of all, it will drink well with minimal cellaring. Drinking window: 2021-2031. 94 points
Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.”
“The 2017 Chardonnay Highland Divide is a sort of super-appellation wine made from a blend of fruit from the estate and Morelli that offers quite a bit of exuberance in both its flavors and textures. Orange peel, honeysuckle, wild flowers and tropical accents all grace this wonderfully inviting Chardonnay from DuMol. I loved it. Drinking window: 2020-2027. 93 points
“The 2017 Pinot Noir Highland Divide is rich and boisterous in the glass. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, hard candy, cola and spice are amped up in a Pinot that captures all of the natural exuberance of the Russian River. Readers will find an especially bold, juicy style. Drinking window: 2020-2029. 93 points
“The 2018 Pinot Noir Ryan Jentoft Vineyard is a deep, tannic wine. Readers should be prepared to cellar it for at least a few years. Black cherry, spice, leather, tobacco and menthol add to a feeling of gravitas. This is an especially potent, brooding style. The Jentoft offers a compelling mix of power, inner sweetness and sheer dimension. Drinking window: 2025-2035. 95 points
My tastings at DuMOL are usually pretty epic, as I sample two vintages of pretty much the entire range. The pandemic made a visit this year impossible, so this report focuses on the bottled 2018s. The wines are brilliant across the board, just as they were from barrel. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2018 as a year with moderate temperatures, especially at harvest time, which allowed for picking tiny sections of vineyards in small, separate passes. From top to bottom, this is an impressive lineup.”
“The 2017 Pinot Noir Joy Road Vineyard boasts extraordinary aromatic presence and tons of sheer sensuality. Sweet red cherry, raspberry jam, pomegranate, blood orange and mint give the Joy Road its distinctive personality. The 2017 is rich and exotic, but not at all heavy. And that is the magic of the coast. Drinking window: 2022-2032. 95 points
“The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Montecillo Vineyard is fabulous. Andy Smith has done a tremendous job marrying the savory intensity of this Moon Mountain site with a lush expression of fruit. A wine of impeccable balance and class, the Montecillo is superb. Naturally, it needs a number of years in bottle to shed some baby fat and show the nuances that are typical of this site. There is so much to look forward to. The 2018 has really blossomed since I tasted it from barrel. Drinking window: 2026-2043. 97 points
These three 2018 Cabernets from DuMOL are superb. The wines are deep, polished and so expressive of place. I will review the rest of DuMOL’s extensive lineup in my upcoming Sonoma report. In the meantime, though, readers will want to check out these sublime Cabernets from winemaker Andy Smith and his team.”
“The 2016 Pinot Noir Ryan Widdoes Vineyard is one of the most distinctive wines in this lineup. Soaring, perfumed aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit give the Widdoes much of its multi-faceted profile. Red berry fruit, blood orange, mint and floral overtones build as this striking, deeply expressive Pinot shows off its unmistakable pedigree and pure class. Drinking window: 2021-2031. 95 points
Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.”
“The 2017 Pinot Noir Wildrose Vineyard is one of the more reticent wines in this range. I imagine the 33% whole clusters have a lot to do with that. Bright, punchy and super-expressive, the 2017 has so much going on. Freshly cut flowers, mint, crushed rocks, dried flowers and savory herbs all grace this finely cut, wonderfully nuanced wine. The 2017 is fabulous, but it needs time. Drinking window: 2022-2032. 95+ points
California lost one of its great wine pioneers with the passing of Burt Williams in December 2019. The first commercial vintage of Williams Selyem was in 1981, and all these years later, it remains a benchmark for Pinot Noir in California. Williams influenced countless winemakers and was integral in shaping the wine landscape in California that we are fortunate to inherit today. We raise our glasses in your honor.”
