“One of the highlights in this range, the 2018 Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard dazzles from the very first taste. In the glass, the 2018 is deep, inky and yet also light on its feet. Sweet red fruit, red plum, mint, spice, licorice infuse the Coastlands with tremendous intensity, and yet the 2018 remains light on its feet, in the way the best Pinots from this site magically can. This is a fabulous showing and a textbook example of what Coastlands is all about. Readers who can find it should absolutely not hesitate. Drinking window: 2020-2033. 96 points
California is a hotbed of talent these days. Even so, I can’t think of too many producers who excel with so many different varieties and wines as Duncan Arnot and Nathan Roberts do. This range is full of highlights. The reds are especially strong this year, led by the stunning Coastlands Pinot, three rock-star Syrahs and a trio of 2017 Cabernets that capture all the best that challenging year had to offer. As always, the wines are built on energy and vibrancy, with a good bit of whole cluster influence in the Pinots and Syrahs.”
“The 2019 Evangelho Heritage Wine is a total knock-out. The later than normal harvest yielded a wine with a bit more mid-palate juiciness than is typically the case. Dark red/purplish fruit, along with hints of cinnamon and new leather, develop with time in the glass. The Evangelho is a blend of the Zinfandel, Mataro and Carignan-based field blends, with the Mataro quite prominent today, and the Carignane less so. In a word: superb. Zinfandel, Mataro, Carignan, Palomino, Alicante, Mission. Drinking window: 2024-2039. 95 points
Morgan Twain-Peterson MW and Chris Cottrell turned out a dazzling set of 2019s. The whites in particular are brilliant and show just how compelling the vintage is in Sonoma for white varieties. As for the 2019 reds, they don’t quite reach the stratospheric heights of the 2018s, but that is a pretty high bar to match. In the 2019 reds, readers will find aromatic, bright wines with terrific energy and just a bit less structure than in the most important years. More importantly, the Bedrock wines provide a fabulous opportunity to explore the nuances of many top Sonoma sites. Stated another way, the quality of vineyards is especially apparent in 2019, a year with a bit of rain in the spring that caused berries to size up. Lastly, readers won’t want to miss the Zinfandel Old Vine. Twain-Peterson and Cottrell were a bit wary of the wine market during a pandemic and were consequently especially stringent with the lots that were bottled as vineyard designates. Everything else went into the Zinfandel Old Vine, to its benefit, and yours.”
“The 2017 Merlot is deep, fruity and quite expressive. Black cherry, plum new leather, dried herbs and spice are nicely layered in a deep, resonant Merlot. Drinking window: 2020-2027. 90 points”
“Composed of 99% Sauvignon Blanc with splashes of Viognier, Verdejo and Semillon, the 2020 Sauvignon Blanc bursts with melon and lime scents plus hints of mandarin peel, fresh hay and elderflower. Medium-bodied, clean and lively, it has a great intensity of citrusy flavors and a savory finish. Drink: 2021-2023. 88 points”
“The 2016 Chardonnay Estate Vineyard is rich and creamy, with a hint of reduction that adds an intriguing upper register of freshness. Orchard fruit, mint, white pepper and chalk are nicely woven throughout. The Estate is a wonderfully complete Chardonnay from DuMol that will drink well for many years to come. Drinking window: 2019-2026. 95 points
Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.”
“The 2016 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard is an absolutely stellar wine. Dark and also quite savory in the glass, the 2016 presents a super-intriguing range of aromas, flavors and textures. The Estate has a Syrah-like feeling of density and darkness that is incredibly appealing. Huge tannins need time to soften. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with a magnificent Pinot Noir. Drinking window: 2021-2031. 96 points
Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.”
“The 2016 Pinot Noir Finn is dense, pliant and super-expressive, with superb depth and all of the textural resonance that makes Russian River Pinot so undeniably alluring. Bright red cherry, plum, dried rose petal and spice all develop with time in the glass. The 2016 is even more impressive from bottle than it was from barrel. Best of all, it will drink well with minimal cellaring. Drinking window: 2021-2031. 94 points
Andy Smith and his team turned out a brilliant set of wines in 2017. The harvest was especially condensed, with most days seeing heavy picks of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay pretty much concurrently. Smith told me the DuMOL parcels were affected by a high incidence of shot berries, which naturally lowered yields. Small berries, often with no seeds, further resulted in a collection of dense wines. Smith told me low alcohol conversions resulted in wines with a bit lower alcohol than is typical. That is fascinating, as the wines are quite rich in feel. The bottled 2016s are just as compelling from bottle as they were last year from barrel.”
“The 2017 Chardonnay Highland Divide is a sort of super-appellation wine made from a blend of fruit from the estate and Morelli that offers quite a bit of exuberance in both its flavors and textures. Orange peel, honeysuckle, wild flowers and tropical accents all grace this wonderfully inviting Chardonnay from DuMol. I loved it. Drinking window: 2020-2027. 93 points
“The 2017 Pinot Noir Highland Divide is rich and boisterous in the glass. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, hard candy, cola and spice are amped up in a Pinot that captures all of the natural exuberance of the Russian River. Readers will find an especially bold, juicy style. Drinking window: 2020-2029. 93 points
