“The 2020 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard offers stunning transparency, with the volume turned up on aromatic detail and structural harmony. It opens with characteristic matchstick and flint that slowly unfolds to scents of white peach, lemon peel, crushed shell and dried chamomile. The palate is seamless, satiny and highly concentrated yet youthfully coiled, with a tensile core of preserved citrus. It has a long, mineral-driven finish that hints at the floral perfume and savory nuances yet to emerge. Curious about that matchstick character, I drank from this open bottle for five days as it opened and expanded in expression—it’s going to be long lived in the cellar. Winemaker Andy Smith says this may be the earliest pick ever of Hyde—these Chardonnay grapes were harvested just two days after the wildfires began, on August 20th. Typically around 36 barrels are made; in 2020, only 20 barrels were made. Drinking window: 2022-2032. 97 points”
“The 2020 Pinot Noir Ryan Dutton-Jentoft Vineyard is a standout. It possesses terrific richness and vibrancy, all in a forward, yet mid-weight style that is hugely appealing. Sweet dark cherry, plum, lavender, mint and cinnamon meld together effortlessly. The purity of the flavors is really quite striking. Drinking window: 2022-2028. 94 points
Andy Smith and his team turned out a positively stellar set of 2020 Sonoma wines in what was one of the most challenging years ever. To be sure, the 2020s are on the lighter side, the result of drought and heat that shocked the vines, plus the necessity of harvest that was accelerated in some spots to avoid fires. But the wines are clean and expressive.”
“The 2019 Pinot Noir Joy Road is one of the more subdued wines in the range. It presents a whole range of floral and savory notes, and yet the fruit remains very much in the background. Today, the Joy Road is a bit austere. I would be in no rush here. Drinking window: 2024-2034. 93 points
This is a pretty remarkable set of new releases from DuMOL. The Pinots achieved a level of richness that was not easy in a year with a fair amount of rain early in the season, while the Syrahs and Chardonnays are terrific. Winemaker Andy Smith describes 2019 as a year with uneven flowering, especially in Pinot and Syrah, which resulted in small bunches and naturally low yields. Vineyards required just one pass to adjust crop levels, as opposed to three in 2018. On paper 2019 is a vintage with low acids for the Chardonnays vis-à -vis 2018 and lower tannins for the Pinots as well. In my view, though, the biggest driver of style at DuMOL is an emphasis on freshness and energy that defines the wines today as compared to a decade ago, when the wines were much more opulent and oaky. Another key development has been DuMOL’s transformation into an estate winery. In the early days all of the fruit here was purchased. Today, nearly all the Pinot and Syrah are estate, as is more than half of the Chardonnay.”
“The 2023 Pinot Noir Maclntyre Estate is another hugely promising wine from DuMOL. Dense and packed to the core, the 2023 possesses tremendous density from start to finish. The 2023 is all Calera clone, 100% destemmed. Today, it comes across as rather somber, not as exuberant as the 2021, but far more complete than the 2022. Savory overtones linger on the close. Drinking window: 2026-2038. 95-97 points
This is a stellar set of 2023s from Andy Smith and Jenna Davis at DuMOL. Yields were low for Chardonnay but bountiful for Pinot Noir to the point of requiring considerable thinning of the crop. The Chardonnays are glorious, rich but not heavy, and incredibly expressive of place. That’s a pretty appealing combination in my book. A few of the Chardonnays are in bottle, but most will be bottled this winter. The Pinot Noirs might be even more impressive. They saw 18-21 days on the skins followed by very slow, gradual malolactic fermentations, with no added SO2 in aging until racking. The Bressay, MacIntyre and DuMOL Estate Pinots are all magnificent in the early going. Most of the Pinots had not been bottled at the time of my tastings. I will follow up once I have had a chance to taste the finished wines.”
“The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Meteor Vineyard exudes class, precision and concentration. Inky red fruit, chalk, white pepper, blood orange, pomegranate, dried herbs and mocha are all finely sketched. This Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon hits all the right notes. I loved it last year from barrel, and I love it today in finished form. Drinking window: 2027-2046. 98 points
My most recent visit to DuMOL focused on tasting all the 2021s that were in barrel when I stopped by last year. I am happy to report that the bottled 2021s are every bit as strong as they were from barrel. Unfortunately, my visit also coincided with the bottling of the 2022s, so I was not able to taste those wines. That can happen. Andy Smith is one of the most pragmatic winemakers I know in Sonoma. Bottling times rarely follow a formula and can vary from vintage to vintage and wine to wine, so the lineup here can also vary from tasting to tasting. I will follow up on the 2022s as soon as I have a chance to taste them.”
“The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Montecillo Vineyard is fabulous. Andy Smith has done a tremendous job marrying the savory intensity of this Moon Mountain site with a lush expression of fruit. A wine of impeccable balance and class, the Montecillo is superb. Naturally, it needs a number of years in bottle to shed some baby fat and show the nuances that are typical of this site. There is so much to look forward to. The 2018 has really blossomed since I tasted it from barrel. Drinking window: 2026-2043. 97 points
These three 2018 Cabernets from DuMOL are superb. The wines are deep, polished and so expressive of place. I will review the rest of DuMOL’s extensive lineup in my upcoming Sonoma report. In the meantime, though, readers will want to check out these sublime Cabernets from winemaker Andy Smith and his team.”
“The 2017 Pinot Noir Wildrose Vineyard is one of the more reticent wines in this range. I imagine the 33% whole clusters have a lot to do with that. Bright, punchy and super-expressive, the 2017 has so much going on. Freshly cut flowers, mint, crushed rocks, dried flowers and savory herbs all grace this finely cut, wonderfully nuanced wine. The 2017 is fabulous, but it needs time. Drinking window: 2022-2032. 95+ points
“The 2019 Belle Cousine, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot from Hyde, is fabulous. Bright and focused, the 2019 bristles with energy. Strong Cabernet inflections give this mid-weight red tons of aromatic presence to match its mid-weight personality. Dark red/blue fruits, mint, blood orange, spice, leather and mocha are some at the notes that emerge over time. Like all the best wines here, the Belle Cousine otters outstanding focus, clarity and freshness. Drinking window: 2025-2039. 95 points
Despite the names of its two co-founders, Hyde De Villaine remains an under-the-radar gem. The winery is in the town of Napa, pretty far removed from the rest of Napa Valley. Guillaume Boude crafts subtle and nuanced wines that emphasize freshness and verve more than anything else. Over the years, I have been so impressed with how these wines age, although they are pretty compelling young, too.”
“The 2022 Chardonnay De La Guerra is a new entry-level offering from sites in Carneros. Pretty floral and tropical aromatics give this effusive Chardonnay plenty of charm. Apricot, tangerine peel, baked apple tart and slightly buttery notes open nicely. There is a touch of phenolic edge that I hope will be less of an issue in less extreme years. Drinking window: 2025-2030. 88 points
Despite carrying the names of its two illustrious co-founding families, Hyde de Villaine remains one of the most under-the-radar wineries in Napa Valley. Guillaume Boudet crafts wines that show the more nuanced side of Napa Valley. These are wines that are slow to reveal themselves, wines that need more time in bottle than most to shine. These offerings will appeal most to readers with old-school palates.”
“The 2022 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is powerful and resonant in the glass. Lemon confit, marzipan, hazelnut, slate and white flowers all soar out of the glass. Silky and persistent, with fine depth, the 2022 has plenty to offer. I find the reduction here quite prominent, but there does appear to be enough fruit and overall texture to pull it all together. Clones here are 70% Wente Clone and 30% Calera. Drinking window: 2026-2034. 93 points
Despite carrying the names of its two illustrious co-founding families, Hyde de Villaine remains one of the most under-the-radar wineries in Napa Valley. Guillaume Boudet crafts wines that show the more nuanced side of Napa Valley. These are wines that are slow to reveal themselves, wines that need more time in bottle than most to shine. These offerings will appeal most to readers with old-school palates.”
“The 2022 Pinot Noir Ygnacia Hyde Vineyard is a rich, bombastic wine. Dark red cherry, spice, cedar and pipe tobacco are all dialed up. The Ygnacia is a blend of six massale selections. In 2022, it is a decidedly potent, dense wine. Done with fully destemmed fruit, this powerhouse Pinot needs a few years to shed some baby fat. It will be interesting to see if more finesse develops over time. Drinking window: 2024-2034. 93 points
Despite carrying the names of its two illustrious co-founding families, Hyde de Villaine remains one of the most under-the-radar wineries in Napa Valley. Guillaume Boudet crafts wines that show the more nuanced side of Napa Valley. These are wines that are slow to reveal themselves, wines that need more time in bottle than most to shine. These offerings will appeal most to readers with old-school palates.”
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