“From 70-year-old vines on granitic soils in the Eden Valley, the 2016 Loechel Shiraz features bright, floral aromas, hints of crushed stone and a tight, unyielding core of blueberry fruit. It’s medium to full-bodied, firm and concentrated, with plenty of aging potential. It’s perhaps the most Northern Rhône-ish of these offerings. Drink: 2022-2035. 96 points
Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”
“Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”
“The fragrant and ethereal 2023 Pinot Noir Bull Swamp delivers a pretty array of aromas; charming floral and musky tones are followed by red cherry and cranberry, supported by deep wells of earthy spice. Smoky volcanic flavors emerge with strong underlying power, although right now they sit a little in their shell. Fine yet meaty tannins and an elongated finish are strong signs that this will all come together beautifully over the next five years. Drinking window: 2026-2033. 94 points”
“Saturated garnet. Vibrant, mineral- and spice-accented red fruit preserve, potpourri and vanilla qualities on the intensely aromatic nose. Juicy, alluringly sweet and focused on the palate, offering juicy raspberry, kirsch, cola, spicecake and succulent herb qualities that flesh out with aeration. Finishes extremely long and precise, with polished tannins making a late appearance. Drinking window: 2025-2035. 94 points”
“This elegant and refined 2019 Keyneton Euphonium (a blend of Barossa Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot) displays leaf, dried herbs, mulberry, blackberry and savory, oak-aged aromas. There’s a real claret feel with its mid-weight, compact shape and reserved flavor profile. Elongated, pliable tannins will keep this wine in good condition over the medium term. Drinking window: 2025-2034. 92 points
Henschke’s history stretches back to 1868. Over the last 150 years, this family-owned winery has built a remarkable reputation for premium wine. Fifth-generation winemaker Stephen Henschke, with viticulturist wife Prue Weir, has overseen Henschke’s rise to be undoubtedly one of the country’s leading wineries. The combination of Henschke’s technical winemaking and Weir’s regenerative agriculture have increased wine quality across the board. The Hill of Grace single vineyard Shiraz is undoubtedly its most famous label. Still, many other wines, like Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Hill of Roses Shiraz, Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon and Julius Riesling, all from the Eden Valley, are not far behind. While Henschke also sources fruit from the Barossa Valley, their heart and home are squarely in the upper reaches of the Eden Valley, a key element in the house style.”
“The 2018 Lovedale Cellar Aged Semillon is rich, mouthfilling and long, with cold buttered toast, lemon myrtle, hints of dried rosemary and tobacco. The wine pulls through and persists in the mouth long after it’s gone, and it brings new characters to the fore—lemongrass, fresh grated nutmeg, wet limestone and even a hint of saffron. Superb. 11% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink: 2023-2038. 94 points“
Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate (11/23)
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