“Qualified viticulturist Patrick Sullivan started out at the natural end of the winemaking spectrum, but today, his wines are more classically styled–although still with a bit of funk. Sullivan spreads his time around several wine regions, including Gippsland and Yarra Valley, and the wines are, unsurprisingly, very much made in the vineyard. They are cutting-edge yet also thrilling and worth tracking down.”
“Qualified viticulturist Patrick Sullivan started out at the natural end of the winemaking spectrum, but today, his wines are more classically styled–although still with a bit of funk. Sullivan spreads his time around several wine regions, including Gippsland and Yarra Valley, and the wines are, unsurprisingly, very much made in the vineyard. They are cutting-edge yet also thrilling and worth tracking down.”
“Qualified viticulturist Patrick Sullivan started out at the natural end of the winemaking spectrum, but today, his wines are more classically styled–although still with a bit of funk. Sullivan spreads his time around several wine regions, including Gippsland and Yarra Valley, and the wines are, unsurprisingly, very much made in the vineyard. They are cutting-edge yet also thrilling and worth tracking down.”
“The stunning 2022 Chardonnay Woori Yallock offers up a superb mix of complexity and raw power in a streamlined style. It opens with pure and precise aromas of saline, pith and almond meal—vibrant and tightly composed. A streak of acidity drives a taut texture, rippling with nutty nougat and citrus. It’s perfectly composed, unfurling subtle florals and chalk. The 2022 is tight for sure but will deliver plenty over the coming years. Drinking window: 2030-2036. 94 points
Qualified viticulturist Patrick Sullivan started out at the natural end of the winemaking spectrum, but today, his wines are more classically styled–although still with a bit of funk. Sullivan spreads his time around several wine regions, including Gippsland and Yarra Valley, and the wines are, unsurprisingly, very much made in the vineyard. They are cutting-edge yet also thrilling and worth tracking down.”
“In case you thought the Powells were only making tiny quantities of unaffordable wines, the 2016 Barossa Valley Shiraz retails for a reasonable $30 per bottle. From mostly 20- to 30-year-old vines in Marananga, it’s aged in foudre. It’s medium to full-bodied, with tar and black olive notes on opening that blossom into cherry and blueberry fruit after decanting. The tannins are fine, lingering on the silky finish. Drink: 2018-2025. 91 points
Dave Powell was the founding winemaker at Torbreck (1994), where he single-handedly built the brand into a major player before being ousted in a business dispute. The 2016s are the third vintage for him and his son Callum under the Powell & Son label. Many of the vineyard sources are similar to those he worked with previously, but there’s no doubt Callum has had an impact on the style of the wines, as they’re definitively not Torbreck. The changes are subtle, but there’s a finer eye on the oak and gentle extraction, all in pursuit of intricacy and detail in the finished wines. “It’s been crucial for me to have Callum come in and give another perspective,” said Powell. The stars of the lineup are the Steinert and Kraehe Shirazes, very different expressions from very different sites, but it is impossible to go wrong with any of the latest releases.”
Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (238)
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