Benoit Dehu Extra Brut La Rue des Noyers N.V. (2016)

“The NV (2016) Cuvée La Rue des Noyers, 100% Meunier, is bright, effusive and full of energy. In 2016, the Rue des Noyers is not as overt as it can be, but instead makes its case with energy and verve more than sheer power. I find it especially distinctive and elegant. Exotic dried flowers, ginger, apricot and spice linger. There is so much to like, and also so much to look forward to as the 2016 develops in the cellar. No dosage. Disgorged: May, 2021. Drinking window: 2022-2030. 94 points

This is a gorgeous set of wines from Benoît Déhu. There are three single-variety/single-parcel Champagnes, and the Initiation, which is a Meunier/Pinot Noir blend. Biodynamic viticulture and a minimalist approach in the cellar are the rule. Some wines are vinified and aged in oak (Rue des Noyers, Cuvée de L’Orme), which seems to add depth and texture. Malolactic fermentation is blocked and wines are bottled with no dosage. Déhu achieves fabulous balance with his wines. The 100% Pinot Noir Cuvée L’Orme is especially brilliant this year.”

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (11/18)