Benoit Dehu Initiation Rose N.V. (2019)

“The pale-colored NV (2019) Rosé Initiation is laced with hints of chalk, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks. Readers who enjoy a nervy style of mineral-drive, taut Rosé will enjoy this. I would like to see a bit more depth on the mid-palate. No dosage. Disgorged: February 28, 2022. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier. Drinking window: 2022-2027. 90 points

Benoît Déhu has a pretty intriguing set of new releases this year. The top wines remain La Rue des Noyers (Meunier) and Cuvée L’Orme (Pinot Noir), both of which are impressive, especially considering the challenges of 2017. There is also a collection of single-rootstock bottlings from Rue des Noyers, in this case all 2014s. Those are interesting wines to taste, but perhaps releasing them in the same vintage as the Rue des Noyers might have provided a greater opportunity for comparative tastings. Biodynamic farming is the norm. The wines are fermented and aged in neutral wood, with blocked malolactic fermentation and bottled with no dosage. These remain some of the most distinctive Champagnes readers will come across.”

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (11/22)