Champagne

“Disgorged with 2.5 grams per liter dosage, Lahaye’s NV Rosé de Macération saw a day or two of maceration in tank before pressing, followed by vinification in amphora and barrel. Bursting with aromas of peonies, blood orange, red berries and spices, it’s medium to full-bodied, pillowy and flavorful, with lively acids and a saline finish. Drink: 2020-2030. 92 points

Benoît Lahaye has been producing wine at this 4.8-hectare Bouzy estate since 1993, and only a few years later, he began to experiment with organic and biodynamic farming. Now certified biodynamic for over a decade, he ploughs many of his vineyards with his own horses. Concentrated and incisive, these are serious Champagnes: harvested at full maturity and vinified without chaptalization in barrels, they see comparatively long élevage on the lees—with full malolactic fermentation—before tirage, and after maturation sur lattes, they’re disgorged with minimal dosage. Lahaye is one of Champagne’s finest producers, and on this visit to the domaine, I relished the opportunity to taste though all his recent releases.”

William Kelley, Wine Advocate (248)

“The 2009 Extra-Brut Aÿ Vauzelle Terme, 100% Pinot Noir from a south-facing slope, is surprisingly ethereal in its first impression, before the natural power of the vintage makes itself felt. Mirabelle, crushed flowers, spice, mint and sweet dried cherry add pretty shades of nuance. The personality of Pinot from Aÿ comes through loud and clear. Disgorged May 2019 and bottled with no dosage. Drinking window: 2020-2029. 95 points”

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (08/20)

“The NV Cuvée No. 739 Disgorgement Tardif, the 2011 edition in its second release, is a fine effort for a year that was so challenging for Champagne. Orange peel, dried flowers, hazelnut, licorice and spice are all signatures of a Champagne that is at a first plateau of maturity. I would not push my luck on aging. In 2011, Jacquesson did not bottle any lieu-dits. All the best fruit went into the 739. The blend is 57% Chardonnay, 21% Pinot Noir and 22% Pinot Meunier, with 31% reserve wines. Disgorged: June, 2020. Drinking window: 2021-2025. 90 points”

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (11/21)

“The NV Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs marries power with energy to a degree I have not seen before here. In this edition, the Brut Nature is decidedly powerful and broad, with less of the tension seen in some previous releases. It’s as if all the Chardonnay flavors have been turned up to the maximum. Orange peel, apricot, chamomile and spice are some of the many notes that fill out the layers. The current release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015, all done in neutral oak. Zero dosage. Disgorged: February, 2020. Drinking window: 2020-2026. 92 points”

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (08/20)

“One of the many highlights in this range, the NV Extra Brut Rosé de Meunier is powerful, vinous and structured. It is also quite reticent and not at all forthcoming. A bit more time in bottle should do the trick, though. Hints of rose petal, mint, game, dried herbs and licorice add intrigue to a Rosé that is at once powerful and laser-like in its focus. There is plenty of Meunier character, and yet the best is very clearly yet to come. The current release is a blend of equal parts 2016 and 2015 done in a pretty unique style that blends 60% white pressed Meunier, 30% rosé de saignée, 10% still red Meunier, an approach that works beautifully here. The Rosé de Meunier is basically the same wine as the Ultradition Rosé, but with lower dosage. Dosage: 2.5 gr/L. Disgorged: October, 2018. Drinking window: 2019-2019. 94 points”

Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate (12/19)

“Dominique Moreau presented a stunning range of Champagnes this year. The 2016 Extra Brut Sans Soufre Présence and 2015 Extra Brut Rosé Indulgence are both positively stellar. A focus on old vines and no dosage led some of the early wines here to feel a bit stark and austere. That is seldom the case these days. Biodynamic farming, natural ferments, aging in neutral vessels and very low to no sulfur are central to the philosophy here. There is something very human about these wines. They aren’t always perfect, but they are always interesting.”

Antonio Galloni, Vinous (11/21)